Carla Sozzani, the unofficial (yet unrefuted) doyenne of Milan’s fashion and arts scene, has long confessed to a passion for paper – so much so that in 1988 she founded her own publishing imprint, Carla Sozzani Editore. It’s only fitting that now her life and self have been laid out bare in her favourite medium: a prolific illustrated biography, Carla Sozzani: Art, Life, Fashion authored by Louise Baring and published by Thames & Hudson. 

For such a dynamic career – as an editor, publisher, curator, and founder of 10 Corso Como, Fondazione Carla Sozzani, and Fondation Azzedine Alaïa – Sozzani has remained steadily reserved in the public eye, precise with each word and gesture. The intimacy of the new publication is, in this sense, both revelatory and curious; thanks to her mother’s vast photographic archives of her youth, the book reads as a sort of personal photo album, illustrating tender written reflections on both her career and her significant relationships. 

To mark the release of her mighty biographical tome, Carla Sozzani joined us over WhatsApp from Milan to answer 50 quick-fire questions on her memories of her sister, the late Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani; dining tips for her beloved Portofino; and thoughts on how fashion has changed over her (almost) 60 year-long career – before heading off to enjoy a well-deserved glass of Prosecco.

1. Happy New Year, Carla! How are you today? Very well. Everything is good. It’s a special day. [Laughs]. Life is unpredictable!

2. Where did you spend the end of 2024? In the countryside.

3. Do you have any New Year traditions? Not for many years. For the past 20 years, I used to go to Paris to spend New Year’s Eve with Azzedine [Alaïa]. But since then, I mostly stay in Milano. I used to go to Marrakech a lot too, with my sister and my mother, which was beautiful.

4. Do you have any resolutions for the new year? I’m always open to change. At the beginning of every year, we all hope that nothing will change. But I think that we have to be ready for whatever life brings in and adapt to the changes.

5. Congratulations on the book! How did the idea come about? It was Louise Baring’s idea. She has written books on Dora Maar and Norman Parkinson, that’s how I met her. She said that she would love to write my biography. I said, “Why not?” I told her things I’ve never told anybody else. We have become very good friends. 

6. How was the experience of revisiting and collating a lifetime of memories? So many ups and downs and emotions. But when you start talking to somebody, and you like that person, it’s easier. It has been a long process, but then again, it’s been a long life.

7. Was there a specific memory that perhaps you’d forgotten about that came up? Let’s just say that it was a journey for myself. A long journey. [Laughs]. 

8. What’s your earliest memory of clothes and fashion? Lots of childhood summers spent with the nuns. My sister and I were going to The Marcelline [Sisters of Saint Marcellina in Milan] school, all our lives until we were 18. There was a uniform: a blue dress, shoes, and a white apron. When we were not at school, it was a grey flannel skirt, a pale green sweater, a round white collar, and shoes. It was always very disciplined. That’s why as soon as I had the slightest possibility to do so, I went out to buy Pucci! Because for me – all those colours!

9. What is your uniform today? I spent many years wearing Pucci to Gucci to Saint Laurent, Montana, Thierry Mugler, etc. But when I started wearing Comme des Garçons, Azzedine Alaïa, Margiela – my three favourites – I started to go back to my nun days! To be comfortable is the most important. You don’t need to change all the time to show your personality.

10. When did you start tying your hair up with a ribbon? Many years ago. I was in my thirties and wearing all this black. And then when Franca passed away, I changed to this purple-red because I thought it was a much nicer homage to her.

“It is true that when you like what you do, time doesn’t exist. You always find time to do the things you love and for the people you love” – Carla Sozzani

11. What would you do if you didn’t work in fashion? I wanted to be an architect or an interior designer. I really wanted to go Accademia di Brera, but my father wouldn’t let me do it as he thought it wasn’t appropriate for a woman.

12. How did you end up in fashion? I studied languages and literature at Bocconi University. I started to work in fashion by chance because in 1968, there was a political and social revolution, so all the political universities, like Bocconi, were closed or occupied. I started to work for a group of magazines in the meantime. It gave me this desire to do lots of things at once. Because there was a big revolution, we wanted to experiment in the way we dressed, in the way we thought. 

13. Your book opens with a quote from your father: never say “I am tired” and “I have no time.” How do you find time to do it all? It is true that when you like what you do, time doesn’t exist. You always find time to do the things you love and for the people you love. I never, never say, “I have no time.” Even if sometimes I would love to say it!

14. What’s the most significant way in which fashion has changed throughout your career? When I started working in 1968, there was no ready-to-wear – it was just starting out. Yves Saint Laurent started in 1966 in Paris, then opened in Milan in 1967. Before that, everything was custom-made, handmade clothes. And then ready-to-wear arrived and it was like getting drunk! Because all of a sudden you could enter a shop and walk out with a dress!

15. What is one way you think the industry at large can improve? There is a big problem with price points. The ready-to-wear of today is the couture of once-upon-a-time, and the place of ready-to-wear has been taken by big names like Zara. Because what is now called ready-to-wear is not at all. Ready-to-wear also once meant a reasonable, accessible price. Now you can’t walk into one of the big houses without having a lot of money in the bank. Also, when I first started in fashion, there were no T-shirts, jeans or sneakers on the runway.

16. What is your favourite show you have seen? The first Comme des Garçons fashion show changed my mind. I realised that there were clothes that I could wear and feel comfortable in, without wearing make-up etc. It was paradise. I understand that this is the way I personally am and feel, but before this show, I didn’t even know such a world could exist.

17. What is your memory of Azzedine Alaïa? We were friends for 40 years, working together for 20 years, and before that, I used to take all these pictures of his clothes. He was the warmest person – he was really my best friend. He was telling me things that he probably wouldn’t tell anybody else. And me too. We were sharing everything. I used to go to bed with Azzedine on the phone, and my partner, Kris [Ruhs], would say, “You’re still on the phone with Azzedine?!”

18. What was your favourite thing that Azzedine Alaïa cooked for you? Azzedine cooked for everyone. I can’t remember just one thing! He had this incredible charm that would make everyone feel like they were the most important person in his life. Sometimes when he knew I was leaving from Milano, he’d call and say, “What would you like for dinner?” And then he would go to do the shopping. He loved to cook, but also to buy the food himself.

19. What is a special memory you have of Franca [Sozzani]? Franca is only two and a half years younger than me but for me, she was like my daughter. I always felt I had to protect her – I don’t know why because she was very, very strong. There was a moment when she separated from her husband that she came to live with me, my daughter Sara, and the father of Sara. She spent three years with us and that was a wonderful moment. We had our own family, all of us, together.

20. People often said you were like twins. In what ways were you similar? I think we were very similar in almost everything. In terms of taste and opinions, she was always getting me.

21. And different? Franca was much more social. She loved social life, red carpets, and all this. And me, not at all, zero. I love cats, she hated cats – she loved dogs. But apart from that, including a few confrontations throughout our careers and moments when we didn’t talk to each other, we were always glued to each other.

22. What did she teach you about life? She influenced my life, but we had the same father and the same mother so we had the same ethics and the same point of view in many things.

23. You have a special affinity for Africa, inherited from your father. If I could only visit one country, where would you recommend I go? Namibia has the most beautiful sunsets in the world. I remember when Sara went to Namibia she wrote to me, “If you don’t know where paradise is, paradise is here.”

24. There is a whole chapter of your book dedicated to your passion for paper. What are you reading right now? I’m not reading anything.

25. What’s the one book you could read again and again? The Idiot by Dostoevsky. I studied Russian for four years, and that book really impressed me.

26. When did you first start going to Portofino? When my daughter, Sara, was born because it’s very close to Milano. She’s 50 now … so about 49 years ago. And Franca is there so I have a very special link with Portofino.

27. How do you feel about the Kardashians getting married there? Well, I love Portofino so I understand why they did! They were in a very privileged situation, of course, with Dolce and Gabbana, the environment, the church.

28. What’s your favourite place for aperitivo in Portofino? Ugo! Ugo is a tradition [also known as Bar Morena].

29. Best place for focaccia in Portofino? Maria-Angela [of Panificio Canale], of course.

30. And for dinner in Milan? I love to go to [Antica Trattoria] della Pesa, on viale Pasubio. It’s very traditional Italian food. Ho Chi Minh used to work there in the 30s. Nothing has changed, the interiors have stayed exactly as they were.

What’s your favourite word? “Beauty. Because we are in search of beauty all our lives” – Carla Sozzani

31. What’s your favourite pasta? Tortelli di Francesca. Ravioli with ricotta and spinach but handmade by Francesca who is the daughter of the owner of the restaurant [Antica Trattoria della Pesa]. 

32. I read that you believe in fortune tellers. Is that true? Yes, I do. Franca used to say she didn’t care. But in reality, we went to India one time when we were young and we went to a fortune teller late at night, in a strange place. 

Now, I have a friend who is a tarot card reader. I think it helps sometimes. Instead of going to an analyst when you are in a bad mood or insecure, it’s like talking to somebody – or talking to yourself, really – and it helps to clarify something that is not clear. 

33. Do you see the fortune tellers of Brera (Milan)? Oh yes, Via Fiori Chiari is a special street for that. But no, my friend does a reading on the phone. 

34. What advice would you give to your 20-year-old self? Before doing something, think twice or three times. Don’t be too impulsive. Paolo Roversi said that his mother told him, “When you are in a hurry, stop and think.” 

35. What do people assume about you that might be incorrect? That I am distant and not very warm? I’ve heard that sometimes because I’m very reserved.

36. If your house was on fire, what is the one item of clothing you would take? A white shirt, Comme des Garçons Homme, extra large.

37. What’s your greatest fear? Dementia.

38. What is the greatest challenge you’ve had to overcome? So many! But probably my car accident in 1976, which was pretty difficult for me. I was only 29 and I went through the car window face-first. In a way, it helped me to be calmer and more ready for adversity.

39. Do you believe in life after death? No. I wish, but no.

40. Where do you feel happiest? Paris. So many beautiful memories there.

41. What gives you hope? Peace. Although it seems an impossibility today.

42. What would you consider to be your biggest achievement? Apart from my daughter? All my work at the gallery [Galleria Carla Sozzani]. To be able to give to the city of Milano so many exhibitions and so many artists that had never been shown before. I think giving, in that sense.

43. What’s your favourite word? Beauty. Because we are in search of beauty all our lives.

44. What is beauty for you? Beauty for me is everything. [It is] all that gives me peace and makes me serene. Beauty is everywhere – paintings, nature, fruits, dogs, everywhere. And it’s beautiful to look for beauty because it’s important to live well. The perfect beauty is the beauty that is beautiful for yourself.

45. What is one quality in humans that you think is overrated? Money, glory, power.

46. What is one quality that is underrated? Integrity.

47. What’s your biggest virtue? Curiosity.

48. What’s your biggest vice? Dark chocolate.

49. When was the last time you had a good laugh? Every day! Even today, in the middle of this madness, there was a lot to laugh about. I believe there’s always something good in every moment, in every day. I’m never really upset. Even with you now, we’ve had a good laugh! We need to smile and enjoy what is around us. Otherwise life doesn’t make any sense.

50. What are you doing after this interview? Prosecco!

Carla Sozzani: Art Life Fashion by Louise Baring is published by Thames & Hudson, and is out now.