Lupita’s made its debut in late summer on South High. The eatery holds down business operations from the classic brick building that once held the Explorer’s Club as well as Geordie’s. Both were beloved predecessors, which gives Lupita’s some sizable shoes to fill. The building itself is defined by its classic architecture with curving arches. Perhaps that’s an exterior that doesn’t exactly shout “Mexican cuisine,” but it doesn’t need to: Lupita’s food and warm hospitality speak volumes.
The menu at Lupita’s is, in the tradition of Mexican restaurants, gargantuan. While there are lots of combos to consider, newbies can confidently navigate towards the the a la carte section where a bevy of tacos, enchiladas, and burritos await. Regardless, the meal will begin with an old tradition of hospitality that is sometimes lost in post-pandemic dining: chips and salsa. In fact, Lupita’s one-ups the tradition by sharing a trio of salsas. Then it two-ups (is that a thing?) the tradition by adding in a bowl of smooth bean dip topped with a sprinkle of cheese. Mix and match is the way to go, with a warning that the darkest salsa is built to bring some pain.
Already deep in dip-land, it’s still a good plan to add another dip to the mix: Queso Fundido ($8.99). The melty cheese sauce is sufficiently thick to make buoyant a layer of flavorful house-made chorizo. The crumbles are perched atop the cheese, like a crown. The presentation reinforces a sense of good value, as the sausage element is evident. It also allows the chorizo’s savory spike to punch through with flavors that a traditional mixed-in version might otherwise muffle or drown.
In the entree department, there is a distinct comfort-food vibe. You’ll see assorted combinations that leverage foods in the tortilla family (enchilada, taco, burrito) in various permutations. You’ll also see a California Burrito ($15.99), a most welcome combo of things you might expect to find in a burrito (carnitas, sour cream, cheese, lettuce and guacamole) with fries as well. Then there’s cheese sauce on top. Rice is served is on the side, where it belongs.
For something from the poultry department, consider Pollo Feliz ($14.99). It stars a flattened, grilled chicken breast that’s topped with a mass of sautéed spinach and tomatoes bound in cheese sauce. The velvety-rich spinach steals the show and brings something a little different to the table.
Or just go nuts with the Alambre ($16.99). It hosts representation from every kind of meat imaginable: steak, ham, bacon and chorizo, sautéed with peppers and onions. The cured meats tangle together with the steak chunks, binding their flavors in a most appealing way. Your vegetables needs are covered with peppers and onions in the mix with beans and rice on the side.
Margaritas? Of course they have them, in traditional as well as a fiery version made with jalapeño-infused pineapple juice. There’s a host of tequila options as well.
You can find Lupita’s at 1586 S. High St. It’s open daily for lunch and dinner.
For more information, visit lupitasmexicancuisineandbaroh.com.
All photos by Susan Post
