Taken from the Wallpaper* Next Generation January issue of Wallpaper*, we pick the emerging fashion designers and style trailblazers set to define 2024 with their eclectic approaches to design – whether Nicklas Skovgaard’s warped partywear, Torishéju Dumi’s gently subverted tailoring, or Talia Byre’s ‘clever sexiness’.
Photographed by Paris-based image-maker Sasha Marro and styled by Wallpaper* fashion and style director Jason Hughes, this is our fashion class of 2024.
Class of 2024: the emerging fashion designers to know
Anne Isabella (above left)
An eclectic approach defines the work of Berlin-based designer Anne Isabella Rasmussen, who launched her namesake label in 2020. Largely made from upcycled fabrics, her handcrafted pieces take moments of 1960s and 1970s design and rework them into a distinctly contemporary wardrobe.
Available from anneisabella.com and ssense.com.
Nicklas Skovgaard
Dress, £590, by Nicklas Skovgaard, tights, £19, by Falke
(Image credit: Photography by Sasha Marro, fashion by Jason Hughes)
Part of a growing Scandinavian contingent rallying against the restrained, minimal design codes for which the locale is known, Nicklas Skovgaard creates warped partywear – from puffball sequinned skirts to tassel-adorned gowns – which draws on Renaissance portraiture and contemporary pop culture at once.
Available from nicklasskovgaard.com and ssense.com
Rev
Jacket, price on request; leggings, £394, both by Rev
(Image credit: Photography by Sasha Marro, fashion by Jason Hughes)
Founded by brothers Laurent and Arik Bitton, Paris label REV is defined by a mood of ‘innocence and rebellion’ and will also invite various seminal 1990s designers – including Martine Sitbon – to revive their past collections in a series of one-off collaborations. The sculptural sequinned jacket above was designed by the Bittons, part of Rev’s Resort 2024 collection.
Available from revofficial.com and 10corsocomo.com
Torishéju
Jacket, £858, by Torishéju, from Apoc Store. Earrings, £255, by Completedworks
(Image credit: Photography by Sasha Marro, fashion by Jason Hughes)
London-born Torishéju Dumi – a graduate of the city’s Central Saint Martins MA Fashion course – looks towards the iconography and vestments of her Nigerian-Brazilian heritage and Catholic upbringing with layered, twisting forms and gently subverted tailoring. A buzzy Paris Fashion Week debut in October 2023 saw British supermodel Naomi Campbell sport the designer’s opening look.
Available from apoc-store.com
Talia Byre
Dress, £350, by Talia Byre, from Ssense. Boots, £2,150, by Dior
(Image credit: Photography by Sasha Marro, fashion by Jason Hughes)
London-based designer Talia Byre is one of the city’s most intriguing young talents, creating homespun pieces – whether a twisted corset-cum-cardigan with purposely raw seams or playful asymmetric skirts – imbued with what Byre calls ‘a clever sexiness’. Eschewing runway theatrics, her S/S 2024 show was held at the minuscule Cecil Court bookseller Tenderbooks.
Available from ssense.com
Meryll Rogge
Dress, £2,490, by Meryll Rogge, bodysuit, £195, by Wolford
(Image credit: Photography by Sasha Marro, fashion by Jason Hughes)
Antwerp-based designer Meryll Rogge worked for Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten before beginning her eponymous label in 2019. Nominated for the LVMH Prize in 2022, her collections find beauty in the mundane – several of her pieces are riffs on vintage garments – embellishing her eclectic garments with moments of crystal and floral adornment.
Available from meryllrogge.com and ssense.com
Standing Ground
Dress, price on request, by Standing Ground
(Image credit: Photography by Sasha Marro, fashion by Jason Hughes)
Taking its name from the neolithic standing stones which populate his native Ireland, Michael Stewart’s fledgling London-based label Standing Ground is notable for its elegantly engineered silhouettes which contour the body. Largely crafted from jersey which is folded and draped by hand, his intricate creations recall the language of Parisian haute couture.
Enquire at standing-ground.com
Feben
Dress, price on request, by Feben. Boots, £2,150, by Dior
(Image credit: Photography by Sasha Marro, fashion by Jason Hughes)
Central Saint Martins graduate Feben is best known for her twisted, woven and intricately ruffled garments, which the designer says are part of her exploration of ‘physicality, strength, provocation, vulnerability and desire’. The designer’s S/S 2024 collection looked towards artist Carrie Mae Weems for inspiration, seeing her screen-print her own body onto a series of dresses.
Available at feben.co and ssense.com
Model: Omolara Ahmed at Present Model Management. Casting: Ikki Casting at The Art Board. Hair: Chloe Frieda using GHD Pro. Make-up: Sandra Cooke using Victoria Beckham Beauty. Photography assistant: Jérôme Couderc. Fashion assistants: Kris Bergfeldt, Samela Gjoz.
A version of this story appears in the January 2024 Next Generation Issue of Wallpaper*, available in print, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today!