In the early days of 2000 within the boulevards of New York City, two young and zestful entrepreneurs, named Rémi Laba and Aymeric Clemente, crossed paths during their ramblings through this high-octane, concrete jungle.  

Cottoning on to their respective expertise in the realm of luxe hospitality, together the dynamic duo envisioned a charismatic culinary concept, centred around those moments of the French Riviera’s joie de vivre around our dining tables, as the epicurean flavours, fragrant aromas and vivacious spirit of St. Tropez are celebrated right inside the confinements of this high-rise city labyrinth. 

The discerning marriage of the Mediterranean’s toothsome herby spiced flavours, amongst chic pulse-pounding party vibes had struck a catchy chord with the big apple’s haute-monde cliques, and thus had sparked the sensational global evolution of the Bagatelle Restaurant Group stretching out its iconic debonair footprint. A glitzy catalogue of restaurants and beach clubs flaunts their unabashed presence in 15 of the the sexiest cities around the globe, from the winter paradise of Courchevel, hedonistic haven of Dubai and, for yours truly, London and its billionaire playground of Mayfair.

Poising pretty in the sleek crooks of the upmarket district, some mere minutes from Green Park station, it was impossible to miss the swish urban neon sign, brazenly showing off its intense glow to pave the path for its suave clientele to the passageway. A low-lit backdrop of a golden orange hue had set the stage for a sultry flirtatious ambience, elevated further with the dramatic embellishments of luminous Versailles chandeliers, and pristine crisp tables and furnishings amongst neon flare adornments, altogether portraying the epitome of provocative yet poised enticement.

Cashing in on its centre-stage spotlight, a splendacious backlit bar bedecked in luminous onyx had set the tone for the twilight aperitif hours, haughtily displaying a prized array of vintage tipples and prestige spirits to shape up the basis of the bar’s ambrosial cocktail catalogue.

Fighting off my love affair with my favoured ruby tinted cosmopolitan, I unleashed the rebel in me by opting for a Humeur Rose creation whipped up by the mixologist maestros. The sweet, sharp blend flavours from the homemade raspberry and lemon coulis popped with the fizzy burst from Franklin and Sons’ own natural red fruit lemonade, and was uplifted with a refreshing smooth crisp splash of Bombay Sapphire gin. The equally reviving concoction of Get Fresh saw the mellow floral tang of ripe peach give rise to vanilla and citrus notes, infused with mild floral aromas from the Elit Latvian vodka. 

The Bagatelle menus rest in the masterly, gastronomical hands of one man. Emerging from the lavender hills of Provence, the one time protégé of culinary icon Alain Ducasse, chef Rocco Seminara has taken immense fulfilment in his glittering leading role as corporate chef for the Bagatelle Group, and shared with the bonny high society of London the true-blue fresh and wholesome ingredients specially sourced from the Côte d’Azur. In a formidable fellowship with Bagatelle’s London chef François-Laurent Apchié, refined diners are invited to satiate their famished desires on a lavish, domestic like feasting affair, reminiscent of being invited into the home of a libertine bon vivant from the French Riviera.

I was presented with a bountiful offering of French inspired appetisers, dainty butter-moist slices of sea bass carpaccio blending effortlessly with the zesty helping of tonnato sauce; smooth silk with a pop of salty from the mingle of anchovies and tuna. Promptly following, the pan-fried truffle foie gras and crispy potato cake, flowed with melt in the mouth deliciousness, succulent with a golden brown honeyed relish released from the minute sear. The earthy kale and mushroom salad added a delicate lightness to the menu offerings, cutting through the richness with briny hints, and citrus touches.

Not mollified with the ample starter banquet despite my protests, the eggplant parmigiana proved the perfect finale for the round of ‘sur le pouce’ courses, aptly portioned with tender braised eggplant, enveloped in a thick herbed tomato sauce and a mini topping of mellow melted mozzarella.

A favoured entrée high point, the prime, tender Angus sirloin oozed with caramelised meat juices from the intense marbling, and entwined with the smoked charcoal which made for a deep saporous experience. Not one to be outperformed by its ‘La Vince’ nemesis, the moist, honey dressed duck breast made its perfectly pink presence unearthing a smoky wood-grill punch, while the ‘Le Poisson’ John Dory revealed its flaky texture brimming with a mild seaweed savour, paired to a T with a dollop of sweet nutty butter.

Immaculately paired sides or as Bagatelle refers ‘Pour Accompagner Vos Plats’, the piping hot flaxen French fries underwent a ritzy revamp with bountiful lashings of black truffle, while the cauliflower revelled in its umami perfumed marinade and all concluded with several ice chilled flutes of sparkling brut.

Rejecting my rejections for a ‘Douceur’ offering, my retreat from the realm of Bagatelle was declined without sampling Manon Santini’s 2019, World Champion Pizza Dessert of the Pizzetta au chocolat Jivara. Gold coated, creamy smooth chocolate opened up to scores of candied toasted hints from the fine hazelnut segments, making it impossible not to polish off each morsel.

Just as my dearest Cosmopolitan cocktail swiftly made its surprise appearance into my grasp as the clock struck 9pm, the restaurant upped the ante with a reanimated party spirit, fruit brimming shots, raucous dance grooves and heart-thumping, DJ mashups that knuckled down into the ebony midnight hours.

In a nutshell 

In this spirited culinary realm of wanton haute-cuisine, Bagatelle has proven victorious in embracing the redefining notion of exquisite nouvelle dining, while rejoicing in those glamorous, night-owl soirée milieus that beam with both voguish style and polished substance. 

With delectable dining delights, theatrical cocktails and a well-heeled chiselled clientele, the Bagatelle journeys are a testament to the unifying worlds of gastronome and tantalising amusement, while keeping true to its treasured deep origins rooted in the heart of France.

Factbox

Address: 34 Dover Street, London, W1S 4NG
Phone: 0203 972 7000
Website: bagatelle.com/venues/london