“It’s my favourite time of the year for food,” our server says, as he hands us our menus at Ox.

I happen to agree with him, because ingredients like celeriac, venison and autumn truffles make me very happy indeed. But to be honest, any time I’m sitting in this restaurant in Belfast is my favourite time of the year for food.

I’ve eaten here several times since Stevie Toman and Alain Kerloc’h opened it in …