When we think of new openings in Bandra, what comes to mind is mostly a quaint cafe, an upscale restaurant, a happening bar or perhaps an outpost of a famous international brand. It’s true that establishments that fall into each of these categories have opened in the area over the past few months. But amidst all of them, one has stood out for its focus on combating the buzz and bustle of the city. Sukoon by Joshi House wants to provide a getaway, in the heart of Bandra. What does that consist of exactly? And does it succeed? We visit to find out.

Sukoon is the latest offering by restaurateur Suren Joshi, who “envisioned a space that transcends the rush of modernity”. To encourage you to truly immerse yourself in the serenity of this sanctuary, the restaurant offers a 15% discount if you surrender your phone for the entire meal. Sukoon prides itself on providing a garden dining experience. By this, they don’t just mean some potted plants between tables. There are plants, but there’s also a grassy floor and a semi-transparent roof that lets natural light in. The layout is reminiscent of picnic tables in the backyard of a countryside house. Old Bollywood hits play in the background and you are served food on kansa thalis. The rustic touches are just one dimension of the ‘getaway’ objective, however. The other is the menu.

Sukoon specialises in Sattvik, vegan and vegetarian fare. Bandra is no stranger to vegan or health-focused menus, but the selection of dishes here is distinctive. The kitchen is led by Chef Tanvi Shah, under the guidance of Chef Richard D’souza. The food menu features home-style Indian favourites and a few dishes inspired by Asian/ Italian flavours. There is neither alcohol nor sugar-laced sodas, but an array of natural elixirs. Thus, the food and drink options reinforce the invitation to step away from a fast-paced life and the dietary practices it entails. 

We began with the Truffle Cassava Fries – one of the bestselling items we’re told. One bite (each) in and we were captivated. Who knew non-potato fries could possibly taste so good? The delicate crispness of the fries, the tempting aroma of truffle and the lightly spiced mayo together spelt deliciousness.

Another delight was the Sweet Potato Gunpowder Wedges. Compared to the fries, these were on the heavier side, but the final effect was one of wholesomeness. We enjoyed the juxtaposition of the earthy sweetness of the potatoes with the spice of the podi.

Among the other appetisers, what caught our fancy was the Khichu Chaat. The dish as a whole seems like a unique ragda pattice, featuring rice cakes (khichu) and a light ragda curry, along with raw mango chutney. Again, the immediate sensation was one of wholesomeness. Although it was an indulgence, it didn’t somehow come with the guilt of one. 

After these bites, one can choose to try refreshing bowls, salads and wraps or move on to the home-style mains. There are also some solid breakfast options, from ragi dosa to miso and buckwheat pancakes. We liked the Hawaiian Tofu Bowl, brimming with the goodness of charred pineapple, edamame, jasmine rice and satisfying silken tofu. We thought the rice could do with a topping of a sauce (not only on the side), which would bring further depth to the dish. Nevertheless, the flavours did not disappoint.

Throughout our meal, we also sampled a few of the rejuvenating concoctions on the menu. We especially appreciated the lemon ginger and apple cinnamon kombuchas. If you’re in the mood for a mocktail, go for the Kokum Fizz. Enhanced with rock salt, this simple drink is bound to be a hit, especially in summer. Another must-try is Zen Garden. If you think green juices have to necessarily be consumed like medicine, this one will change your mind. A blend of spinach, pineapple, green apple, cucumber and mint, this is a healthy drink you’ll happily sip on. You can also choose to have smoothies, health shots, teas or coffees. 

In the main course, we were undeniably intrigued by the Millet Maggi. How would this healthy take on a comfort classic turn out? Our verdict: a yummy surprise. If you’d otherwise offer a bowl of Maggi mixed with broccoli, peas and edamame, a common response would be “No, thanks.” But here, the combination worked and the addition of garam masala rooted the sense of comfort.

Next, we tried some good old Rajma Chawal, which nailed the calming feeling of ghar ka khana. The same can be said of the Kadhi Chawal Pakora. The other mains, such as the Undhiyu and Veg Ghassi Stew, did not stand out as much. We’d have preferred more robust aromas, especially in such beloved regional delicacies.

For a sweet ending, we highly recommend the Gajar Halwa. Don’t expect the usual version in this case either. Sukoon’s signature twist lies in the use of black carrots, which makes the halwa look more like decadent chocolate fudge. Topped with cream cheese, it provided perfect warmth for a cosy winter night.

Our meal at Sukoon was a good one, but we’d have liked more comfortable seating. We visited in the evening, and the atmosphere indeed made us feel like people gathered in a garden to have a nice time. We couldn’t testify to experiencing complete ‘sukoon,’ but it was definitely a far cry from the regular experiences of eating out in Bandra. 

Where: Sukoon by Joshi House, Ground floor, Noorie House, 4 Rajan Road, Off Carter Rd, Bandra West, Mumbai.