Whether it’s coated in golden sunshine or encased in fog, traveling Highway 1 in Northern California is one of my life’s greatest pleasures. The other day, we drove along this route to have lunch at Nick’s Cove in Marshall. We twisted and turned along that road, passing Stinson Beach and Point Reyes Station until we veered inland and dropped into Marshall, where long-established Nick’s Cove restaurant and its 12 cottages sit on the water’s edge of Tomales Bay. Nick’s Cove was renovated in 2022 and recently, celebrity chef Chris Cosentino was brought on to consult and re-energize the dining experience. I’ve been a longtime fan of Cosentino’s culinary ventures. I often ate at his now-closed San Francisco restaurants Incanto and Cockscomb, and every time I visited Cosentino’s now-closed Boccalone in the Ferry Building I bought some of his nduja, a spreadable salami similar to Spanish sobrasada.

We entered and hesitated until we were greeted and told to sit wherever we liked and were informed there was a QR code on the table. Then, we were handed menus and told that a server would take our order if we preferred. It seems the restaurant is trying to figure out what their customers are comfortable with.

Towards the right beyond the entrance was the bar with a few people who were interacting like locals. The vintage bar stools swivel and have backs. The back-lit spirits gave a friendly glow to the bar area. To the left, in front of the fireplace, there was a wraparound bench with a couple of cocktail tables. The fire was inviting on that chilly day. There are open-beam ceilings, tile floors and nautical decorations such as the oyster poles supporting the railing by the fire. The room opened up to a few tables occupied by families with children. The windows allowed unrestricted views of the bay and the hills to the west. A door led out to a deck. We watched as several people took their drinks out there to enjoy in the fading light.

Another larger room with wooden plank floors opens off the main area with more windows to enjoy the view. This dining room had several bare wooden tables with flatware rolled in dark blue napkins and padded Kelly green chairs. One could imagine “an old salt” over in the corner regaling everyone with their far-fletched tales while you slurp your clam chowder. You’re comfy but not coddled — just right.

We gave the order to the server, bypassing the QR code on the table.

There are several interesting cocktails, like the seasonal Careless Whisper ($15), with Bishop’s Eden apple brandy, winter-spiced pomegranate, lemon and crème de noyaux, and the Marshall Manhattan ($15) made with Lost Republic bourbon and, intriguingly, East Brother Beer Co.’s oatmeal stout syrup. The complex cocktails are reasonably priced in today’s cocktail market. Draft and bottled beers average at $8. Besides the usual non-alcoholic beverages, there are a couple of interesting zero-alcohol beers ($6). For the most part, the list of wines by the glass and bottle are different from the usual players: for instance, bottles of Capture Sauvignon Blanc ($90) and a couple of Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir ($120 and $150).

Oysters from Hog Island and other Tomales Bay producers can be ordered raw on the half shell ($24 a half dozen and $48 a dozen) or with a famous garlic barbecue sauce ($25 a half dozen), which we got. The Grand Shells and Meats ($69) is reasonably priced since it includes a dozen raw oysters plus Lady Edison country ham, nduja, clam dip and grilled bread. The menu is such that you can snack from it or enjoy a whole meal.

Six barbecued oysters supported by rock salt were served in a small cast-iron skillet. The barbecue sauce is thin-ish and a bit sweeter than expected but the oysters were warm and plump.

With a name like Fries with Eyes ($11), we had to order that starter. Little head-on smelts with a cornmeal coat were fried and served with a mayonnaise but the menu said tartar sauce. The fish didn’t get very crispy and could have used more seasoning, even some salt, before serving.

Fish dominate the menu but the exceptions were tempting, too: Grilled Spiced Chicken ($28) with duck fat croutons and pomegranates, the Steak Frites with Point Reyes blue cheese butter and fries ($32) and Captain Thurston’s Burger ($22) with possible additions of Fiscalini white cheddar ($2) and applewood-smoked bacon ($4).

Fish was on our minds though, sitting by the bay.

A grilled, oblong slice of baguette lay across a large bowl of Nick’s Cove Cioppino ($35). A dollop of thinly shaved fennel, mixed with aioli and scattered with fennel fronds, topped the toast.  Mussels, rockfish and calamari were in a thin, lightly seasoned tomato broth with a couple of snow crab legs. This cioppino is less thick with fewer herbs than normally served in the Bay Area. This would appeal to those who prefer a lighter version of this standard.

The Famous Fish and Chips ($24) are served on a red and white paper sheet on a quarter sheet pan. A paper cup each of catsup and really delicious tartar sauce are at one end of the pan with coleslaw. That tartar sauce would have been very good with the Fries with Eyes.

Three large pieces of crispy battered and fried white fish were moist and tasty but again, for our tastes, it could have used a little more salt. The fries are the type that are coated, frozen and fried, making a delicious fry if you can ignore all the extra ingredients it’s loaded with. The coleslaw is the chunky, sweeter, less acidic style.

The chill of day really influenced our choices. We ordered another warming soup: Mussels and Sausage ($24). It featured lots of plump mussels cooked in a white wine-garlic broth with a little chili kick and some broccoli di ciccio that gave a whole new dimension to the dish. Little nuggets of pork sausage nestled in with the mussels and the slight bitterness of the vegetable added more depth to the soup. This was delicious and to be repeated.

Even dessert fits into the fish theme. Straus organic soft serve in chocolate, vanilla or swirl can be ordered curling high over the rim in a shareable fish-shaped bowl ($10), a Taiyaki Fish Cone ($9) or a Chocolate-Dipped Cone ($8). Chocolate pearls, strawberry pearls, sea salt and extra-virgin olive oil can be added for $1 each. All are delicious and the bowl is fun to share.

The S’mores Tart ($12), a tasty treat, is good but not as much fun as the real thing where the hot marshmallow melts the chocolate.

A more adult dessert, Coffee Poached Pear ($12) with a bit of amaro liqueur, didn’t excite. The double dose of bitter needed some relief. Whipped Greek yogurt, torn mint leaves and toasted oats just further confused the experience. The poached pear would have benefited from fewer additions.

Spectacular views and delicious food await you along your trip on Highway 1. Whether you live locally, drop in for the day or spend the weekend, Nick’s Cove welcomes you.

Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at [email protected].

Nick’s Cove

Address: 23240 Highway 1, Marshall

Phone: 415-663-1033

Website: nickscove.com

Cuisine: Seafood

Noise level: Comfortable, could get loud if full

Dog friendly: Yes

Liquor selection: Full

Vegetarian dishes: Sides

Gluten-free selections: Sides

Parking: Open lot

Hours: Noon to 7 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sundays

Prices: $12 to $69

Reservations: For 10 or more

Summary: No matter the weather, you can relax and enjoy the Northern California coastal experience at Nick’s Cove.