Then came a ceviche course. An idea I’ve never really taken to, the dish being halfway between sashimi and cold fish soup. The citrus in the ceviche (usually lime, with some seasoning) is supposed to cure the fish and, I suppose, might offer spiced freshness under the blazing noon sun of South America, but I’ve always felt conned, wanting to take the fish out of the liquid. Until now.

The scallops were in a liquid of condensed milk with “leche de tigre”, a spicy, limey marinade. On top were scattered light seaweedy crisps. It was sensational; melting scallops, that milky soup, a rising chilli heat and the crunch of the crisps. If this is true ceviche, I’m a convert. And it surpassed another (still excellent) dish of crisp squid and potato-like yuca (cassava).

Llama Inn, with its breezy, well-versed service and professional intent, is the best thing to come out of Peru since Paddington.