The next generation of Dunne & Crescenzi is filling the family shoes with pride as the Sandymount branch in Dublin 4 gets a revamp
Fresh fettuccine with Irish lobster alla vodka, Crudo. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan
Today at 03:30
I’ve never been one to lay sprawled by the pool in a deckchair for two weeks in some sun-drenched resort. I know that some people love it, but I like to move on to a new spot pretty much every day. Travelling this way through France, Italy and Spain over the years, one thing I noticed was that so many of the small hotels and restaurants were family businesses carried on down the generations.
Let’s be honest, it wasn’t something we saw a lot of in Ireland in those days, and perhaps this was because our culinary tradition wasn’t strong enough then. When I started out as a critic, yes there were a couple of very high-end French restaurants, but I used to bemoan on these pages as to why we couldn’t eat out every night on a casual basis with good, simple but interesting food in a little bistro or trattoria like our continental cousins.