The gutters were overflowing, flooding the intersection, the night we raced past the outdoor seating into Zalta Mediterranean, shaking our umbrellas. The host came over to help us and show us to our table. How lovely to leave the rain behind and settle into our warm corner.
Owners Susannah and Olivier Souvestre have spent many years creating fun, inviting restaurants with well-prepared food in Marin County. Before Zalta came into being, the Souvestres had Fast Food Français (F3) in the same location serving French-accented American food. They were also involved with French-style restaurants Le Garage in Sausalito and L’Appart Resto in San Anselmo, which is now closed.
When you enter Zalta, directly across the room is a blue neon sign instructing “Let food be thy medicine.” Good idea. Too often we seem to have a love-hate relationship with food. Zalta’s Mediterranean menu is a healthy choice for both your mind and body.
White walls, royal blue chairs and benches, lighting with woven basket shades, fresh greens and white tiles with a blue design set the Mediterranean scene. The dark wood tables sit atop a lighter-colored wood floor. Blue-tinted water glasses and oversize white napkins with blue stripes complete the stage.
The backlit bar stretches along the south wall. The Souvestres also produce spirits under the brand name Alamere Spirits. Look for those among the other spirits on the bar shelves. Across from the bar is a high-top communal table with square four-top tables filling out the room.
When in the Mediterranean, drink like a Greek. My friend ordered an Ouzo ($9), a popular drink in Greece. The dry, anise-flavored spirit was served in a small glass with a pitcher of water for the imbiber to dilute the alcohol as wished. Ouzo is normally drunk as an aperitif but I like it, too, as a digestive. I chose a glass of Somail Minervois ($15). Cocktails are in the $13 range. Draft beer is $8 and in cans for $6. The wine list ($13 to $17 by the glass and $34 to $165 by the bottle) features wines from the Mediterranean, with many of the choices from France.
Under mezze, appetizers, everything looked tempting and we really enjoyed the two we choose: the Charred Eggplant ($14) and the house-made Falafel ($14). The Mezze Plate ($25 for two, $48 for four) is a stack of pita triangles, several dips, dolmas, pickled vegetables, olives and feta. I will return for this on a sunny day when I’ll sit outside and linger over wine. It’s perfect for a couple of friends to share and chat away the afternoon.
The Japanese eggplants were halved, grilled and topped with a chunky tomato sauce. The edges of the eggplant were crispy and slightly charred. Dollops of crème fraiche topped the eggplant. Toasted pita crumbs and a drizzle of harissa oil completed this delicious contrast of flavors, textures and temperatures.
Four crisp, deep brown falafel were served nestled in an avocado tzatziki sauce. The sauce mirrored the herbal green of the falafel and accentuated its herbal quality. Too often falafel are as dense as hockey pucks. These falafel were crunchy on the outside while moist and flavorful on the inside.
I’ve always been a pizza fan but I’ve recently become enamored of pinsas, pizza’s lighter cousin. Pinsa dough is a sourdough-based combination of soy, rice and wheat flours and is fermented for about 72 hours. This lengthy fermentation breaks down starches and creates a dough with less gluten. The result is you don’t suffer from the carb overload that sometimes eating a traditional pizza can leave you with.
Zalta offers several pinas including two with tomato sauce, the Margarita ($20) and the Merguez ($23), and three with crème fraiche, two of which were vegetarian. My friend eagerly chose the Merguez ($23). The traditionally oval pinsa was lightly smeared with a fruity tomato sauce and scattered with lamb merguez sausage and rounds of peppery pepperoncini. A piped lattice of a garlicy green tahini was sprinkled with pine nuts. The restrained, perfectly ample quantity of toppings is in line with the lighter, crispy crust.
The Lamb Moussaka ($28), one of several mains, arrived in a blue oval, enameled casserole on an oval white platter with a bowl of lightly dressed, fluffy fresh lettuce. I dipped my fork through the golden, cheesy béchamel on top the moussaka into the rich ground lamb sauce flavored with tomatoes and red wine. In this reiteration of moussaka, the eggplant was incorporated in the sauce rather than layered. The delicious flavors weren’t as heavy handed as I’ve made and had elsewhere. It was excellent and perfect for our rainy night dinner. The chef said it was more the Turkish style. I think I’ll go that direction next time I’m making moussaka — or just return to Zalta.
Having already enjoyed an elegant sufficiency, we greedily went on to dessert. There was a choice of Chocolate Hazelnut Baklava ($9) or Halva Sundae ($10).
We ordered both. What’s not to like about chocolate, hazelnuts and flaky pastry? The baklava was tasty but I prefer the more traditional, honey-soaked one. The chocolate baklava wasn’t crispy and had just one note: rich.
The sundae was equally rich but a cold dessert that downplays some of that impact, as did the savory note of tahini. Dark chocolate gelato was topped with walnut-hazelnut tahini and stacked high with shredded halva. Dessert was an unnecessary indulgence.
At Zalta, you can imagine you’re at a restaurant along the Mediterranean coast. You’re there not just to eat but to slow down, relax and enjoy.
Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at [email protected].
Zalta Mediterranean
Address: 39 Caledonia St., Sausalito
Phone: 415-887-9047
Website: Zalta.us
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Noise level: Mild to noisy if full
Liquor selection: Full bar
Vegan dishes: Yes
Dog friendly: Outside; service dogs
Parking: Street
Hours: 5 to 8:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 5 to 9 p.m. Fridays; noon to 9:30 p.m. Saturdays; noon to 8:30 p.m. Sundays
Prices: $10 to $36
Reservations: Online or call
Summary: An attractive, casual restaurant with Mediterranean flair.