Takashi Miyazaki has gone in a brave new direction away from fine dining for 2024 and it could start a trend, says our critic
Japanese chef Takashi Miyazaki of Ichigo Ichie in Cork city. Pic Daragh Mc Sweeney/Provision
Today at 03:30
Last October, Takashi Miyazaki decided to relaunch his Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant, where the 12-course hyper-seasonal menu was priced at €140 before drinks or service, as a casual bistro with natural wines. As word spread, I imagine the people behind Ireland’s fine-dining restaurants first felt a pang of envy and then wondered whether they should be doing the same.
Takashi’s decision was pragmatic, influenced by the factors affecting all restaurants these days: the 13pc Vat rate and increased minimum wage, plus high food and energy costs. In the midst of a cost-of-living crisis, there are few who don’t have to think twice about spending €400 plus on dinner for two.