Liquid gold

What is retinol?

A topical derivative of Vitamin A, retinol has many benefits including the fact that it has been clinically proven to stimulate the fibroblast cells, which are responsible for elastin, collagen, hydration and cellular turnover – taking the skin back to a more youthful state. Retinoid use has been traced back to ancient Egypt, where liver (which contains retinoids) was used as a remedy for night blindness.

Retinoids were then introduced into the cosmetics industry via photoaging treatments over two decades ago.

Retinol is now regarded as a powerful ingredient that delivers dramatic skin results if you start slowly and steadily. My philosophy when it comes to retinol is that less really can be more. Going in too quickly with a high strength formula can upset the skin, which is why a progressive approach is key to introducing vitamin A into your routine.

Here are some more of my top tips when it comes to starting your retinol journey…

Know your type

There are many different types of retinol, with the term ‘retinoid’ an umbrella term used for all derivatives of vitamin A. Prescription formulas contain retinoic acid, the most transformative strength of the ingredient, and require medical assistance to use. Although less potent, with consistent use, milder, nonprescription alternatives can also give amazing results with time.

Retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate: The most stable forms. These ester forms have fat attached to them and so they tend to be gentler on the skin. Retinyl palmitate is found naturally in our skin (it is the most abundant form of vitamin A storage in animals), where it works as an antioxidant, particularly for helping to protect skin from UV light exposure.

Retinol: Retinol is the most popular and well-known form of vitamin A and is clinically proven to increase the rate of cell turnover.* This is alcohol form converts to retinaldehyde on application to the skin before transforming to retinoic acid.

Retinaldehyde: A transitional form of vitamin A, this aldehyde form is created when retinol is converted into retinoic acid.

Retinoic acid: This active form is the only type that makes direct changes to the skin. Because it’s the strongest form of vitamin A, retinoic acid such as Tretinoin is only available via prescription.

Retinyl retinoate: An ester of all-trans retinoic acid and all-trans retinol which works directly on our skin cells. This synthetic retinol has been found by some to be less sensitising than prescription strength retinoic acid.

Let your skin guide your starting age

The age you should begin using retinol depends more on your skin than your chronological age. Retinol has many other benefits in addition to anti-ageing and can be ideal for addressing problematic skin. One thing to be aware of is that retinols are not recommended for those that are pregnant or breast-feeding by some brands, always check with manufacturers guidelines before use.

Use in the evening

All forms of retinol (apart from esters) have been shown to cause photosensitivity and so I suggest keeping these for nighttime use and always using a broad-spectrum SPF during the day – which you should be doing every single day anyway.

Retinoids can also break down in sunlight, which is another reason they are most effective when used at night. If you do want to wear one during the day, choose a formula containing retinyl palmitate such as Skingredients Skin Protein Anti-Ageing Retinoid Serum and remember to apply SPF every two hours throughout the day, as recommended by the Irish Cancer Society.

Don’t (always) be put off by irritation

Although steeped with skin benefits, due to its instability and potential for skin irritation, retinol can cause some skin upset, sometimes referred to as a ‘retinoid reaction.’ Why is this? When non-acclimatised skin is exposed to vitamin A, the high levels can cause skin cells to renew themselves too quickly for the skin to catch up, leaving the skin red, inflamed and peeling.

It is normal (and quite expected) to get some redness and mild dryness. The best way to mitigate the side effects is by building up slowly to allow your skin time to acclimate. Start by using retinol once a week and if you are using any acids, such as salicylic, in your routine, use these on alternative nights.

Pay attention to your skin and what it needs – everyone’s skin reacts to ingredients differently but eventually – often within three weeks – your skin should calm and adapt to this new rate of renewal.

Take note – I am talking about mild discomfort here, for example slightly uncomfortable, flushed or lightly peeling skin. If your skin is very uncomfortable, stop using it straight away and speak to your skincare specialist.

Give the results time

As everyone’s skin is different, it is hard to predict when you will be able to see visible results. As a rough guide, an average person’s skin cell cycle is 28 days so you’re most likely to notice a difference in your skin around the one-month mark, but you might see skin results sooner or later. This also depends on the type of vitamin A and how consistently you use it.

For more from Jennifer Rock, see theskinnerd.com

Shop retinol

CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum, £23

Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum, £89

Dr Brandt Triple Active Retinol Overnight Renewal Cream, £59

e.l.f. Youth Boosting Advanced Night Retinoid Serum, £22

Liz Earle Superskin Alt-Retinol Booster, £38

Malin + Goetz Retinol Correcting Serum, £64

Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum, £92

Selfless by Hyram Retinol and Rainbow Algae Repair Serum, £28

Skingredients Skin Protein Anti-Ageing Retinoid Serum £49

Vichy Liftactiv 0.2% Pure Retinol Specialist Deep Wrinkles Serum, £42.50

Pep talk

Catriona Doherty gives you the lowdown on peptides and the benefits of incorporating this product into your skincare regime.

Peptides have become a go-to amongst beauty influencers and industry professionals for their ability to instantly hydrate the skin and improve elasticity.

Peptides are teeny tiny proteins that penetrate the skin to add a moisture boost, therefore helping to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles. Other benefits include reducing inflammation, evening out skintone and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Peptides can stimulate the body to produce more collage and elastin, two proteins that are required for sustaining the skin’s structure. The end result is a firmer, smoother appearance.

Collagen production starts to slow down when people enter their mid-to-late twenties and early thirties, by the age of 40 collagen drops significantly leading to visible markers of ageing such as skin sagging, lines and wrinkles. Using peptides, will address these issues.

If you’d like to try skincare products with peptides, there’s an array of infused serums and moisturisers available at different price points, from low budget to eye watering.

Three to try

Rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid, £29

The Peptide Glazing Fluid from model Hailey Bieber’s skincare brand, Rhode, is described as ‘Hailey’s signature step to dewy, glazed skin’. The product is a lightweight, fast absorbing, gel serum that supports the skin barrier to do what it does best – protect against free radicals, pollution and toxins, and prevent waterloss through the skin. For best results, use one to two pumps in the morning after cleaning skin, or mix it with your usual foundation. As the product contains niacinamide which can cause irritation, doing a patch test on your wrist before using the product, is recommended.

KH Firming Hydrator, £38

Known as Ireland’s lip queen, aesthetic nurse Kerry Hanaphy has three Dublin-based clinics offering clients a vast array of treatments, her own KH skincare offering, in addition to a lip cosmetics range.

Infused with peptides, the Firming Hydrator also contains tara seed extract, emollients and humectants, that work together to deliver what the founder describes as ‘a turbocharged endurance moisturiser’ that leaves skin velvety smooth and feeling firm.

The lightweight fluid can be worn on its own or as a primer for foundation.

Q+A Seaweed Peptide Eye Gel, £6.96

Q+A Skincare – produced ‘q and a’ – is a natural, ingredient-led brand that’s mission is to demystify skincare and make good quality products available at affordable prices.

Formulated with hydrating seaweed and soothing organic aloe vera, Q+A’s eye gel firms and brightens the under-eye area.

For newbies to the brand, now is good time to test the water, as many of their products are on sale. The Seaweed Peptide Eye Gel is currently reduced from £6.50 to £5.50, the Peptide Facial Serum is down from £9 to £7.65, and the Rapid Rejuvenator Bundle is selling for £10 off at £25. The bundle is designed to rejuvenate mature skin and contains the Peptide Facial Serum, in addition to Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Cleanser, 5-HTP Face and Neck Cream, and Caffeine Eye Serum.