Perched on the north corner of the Bay Park Center, close to the Marin end of the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge, SAN Korean Cafe is small, bright and lively. Square faux white marble tables and comfortable white tube chairs create a fresh, clean space that welcomes guests in. Owner and Marin resident Monica Chang, one of the two people working on our visit, was busy at the counter taking a lunch order from a party of three but still warmly greeted us. We sat on stools at the bar in front of the large windows that faced the outdoor eating area and studied the menu. SAN Korean Cafe’s small yet thoughtful menu reflects the kitchen’s reduced cooking equipment: no exhaust hood, deep fryer or other items that require a hood. There are a few indoor tables, seating around 10. One side of the menu is dedicated to breakfast, mostly pastries, and beverages, including Equator Coffee Drinks, both brewed and espresso ($3.25 to $5.50), Teas ($3.50 to $5.50), Boba Tea ($5 and up) and Soft Drinks ($2 to $3.75), which were available from the refrigerated reach-in beside the pastry case. The opposite side of the menu featured the Korean-inspired dishes.

The cafe was full when we arrived and a couple of tables turned while we were eating. Yet, there was calmness about the place. Perhaps this was created by Chang. Even though she was taking orders, as well as plating and serving them, she never looked rushed or harried. I’ve read she has taught yoga and done yoga massage. If that calmness comes from that training, it’s an inspiration.

The Korean take on a Vietnamese Banh Mi could be filled with beef, spicy pork, chicken or tofu. We selected the Chicken ($12.50) with the house-made spicy sauce. The house’s barbecue sauce was also available. The torpedo roll was split and stuffed with chicken, pickled Korean radishes, a few rounds of jalapeños and romaine lettuce. It’s quite different from the Vietnamese style — not as fully stuffed and the roll is denser. The chicken was well seasoned and moist, and even though, due to the generous portion, we decided not to finish it, we were happy to take half of it to-go.

Spicy Pork ($14) was one of the rice bowls. Warm, seasoned broccoli, zucchini, carrots and mushrooms shared bowl space with the house’s signature three grain rice and slices of pork topped with the house-made spicy sauce. The rust-colored sauce was slightly sweet and, while not spicy by our standards, gently enhanced the dish. The Protein Rice Bowls are also available with beef, chicken or tofu.

A few banchan, the small side dishes served with a Korean meal, are featured. We chose the House-Made Kimchi ($4) and Seasoned Spinach ($4). Mixed Banchan ($4.50) features kimchi, seasoned mung bean sprouts, spinach, pickled Korean radish and cubed radish kimchi. One reviewer of this cafe said they had never been charged for banchan in other Korean restaurants. However, at other places, the cost of them was no doubt factored into the cost of the rice or meat they were served with. The prices of some Korean restaurants can be a bit startling until you see all that is included. At SAN Korean Cafe, the prices were very reasonable and the dishes were amply seasoned and garnished and really precluded the need of the banchan. However, I am a great fan of kimchi and really enjoyed the textures and tangy flavors of what we tasted. Check out the refrigerator case to find three different types of kimchi and a couple of house-made sauces bottled to-go.

Six Baked Mandu Dumplings ($8 for beef or vegetables) were less exciting than other items on the menu. Both the vegetable filling and the house-made dip were tasty but the dumplings looked a bit limp. The baking hadn’t added any color or plumpness to them.

This next item was an impulse. We couldn’t resist the name: Korean Corndog ($7). It looked like a regular corndog but the bouncy texture and the fishcake center let us know it wasn’t. It was cute and fun and served with the house-made gochujang sauce that I could just dip and lick off my fingers. I learned what I had guessed; the corndog was not something made in house. There was a freshness and purity about the other items on the menu that just wasn’t showing with this dish.

One of the house specialties, Bi Bim Bap ($15), was our table favorite. The bowl of three grain rice, topped with seasoned, cooked spinach, carrots, soybean sprouts, shiitake mushrooms, zucchini, egg and beef, was tossed with a gochujang vinaigrette. A little bowl of gochujang sauce to add as we pleased came on the side. Be aware, these bowls are served warm, not hot.

After our lunch at SAN Korean Cafe, we felt like we’d eaten well and had been good to our bodies. The food and flavors were light but more than ample. Fresh vegetables dominated. It’s healthful eating that does not smack of health food counters of yore.

Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at [email protected].

SAN Korean Cafe

Address: 2165 Francisco Blvd. E, unit C, San Rafael

Phone: 415-306-7093

Website: sankorean.com

Cuisine: Korean

Noise level: Moderate

Seating: Indoor and front patio

Liquor selection: None

Gluten-free selections: Yes

Vegan selections: Yes

Parking: Lot/street

Hours: 8:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays; 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesdays; 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturdays; closed Sundays

Summary: A quick-service spot in an underserved eating area of San Rafael with flavors and food beyond the usual.