– Transparency –

Despite chilly fall and winter temperatures, designers went all out for the see-through trend, whether at Armani, Prada, Gucci or Alberta Ferretti and more.

At Dolce & Gabbana, it wasn’t just supermodel Naomi Campbell on the catwalk and Eva Mendes in the front row supplying the wow factor, but a series of chic, skin-bearing looks — all in black and inspired by the classic tuxedo.

The design duo devoted nearly their entire collection to the trend. Inky-black transparent silk skirts came tied at the hip or front and were paired with Bolero-style tuxedo jackets, while sheer black blouses were set off with satin belts and fringed with feathers.

Especially daring were dresses made from fishnet, revealing black hot pants and triangle bras underneath.

Giorgio Armani provided a softer, gentler version, with sheer baby blue blouses in silk knotted at the neck peppering the Japan-influenced collection, some with printed floral motifs.

A hot pink robe — an uncharacteristic burst of colour from the master of muted tones — was a boudoir look ready for the nightclub, transparent but with embroidered flowers near the hem.

At Tom Ford, a stunning long sheath in grape may have fully encased the body with long sleeves and a high turtleneck, but it was entirely sheer, with just bikini bottoms peeking from beneath.

– Faux Fur –

The ethical debate over the use of fur continues, as day one of the shows was marked by the storming of the Fendi catwalk by a protester, while animal rights groups similarly targeted Max Mara in an ongoing campaign.

But designers have shown the possibilities for fake ‘faux’ fur to be endless — with furry synthetics making appearances throughout the week at brands as diverse as Prada and Diesel, Emporio Armani and Marni.

Marni’s show was held inside a paper mache cave, so it was only fitting that its fake fur had a Flintstones feel.

Attended by Ye, the former Kanye West, and his wife Bianca Censori in a barely-there leather outfit, the show offered up a collection infused with leopard print and other faux versions of prehistoric prey.

Coats were short but oversized with long, sloth-like sleeves, while furry black stoles were in abundance.

At Diesel, fuzzy looks — somewhere between furry and woolly — were worthy of Star Wars’ Chewbacca, while at Emporio Armani short furry jackets in black and red, or navy and sea green, were elegantly tipped with grey.

Prada opted for maximum contrast, adding faux sable to the necklines, hems and shoulders of feminine white dresses, while purple, chestnut and royal blue fake fur decorated oversized naval captain hats.

– Cable Knits/Ribbing –

Cable knits and ribbed sweaters and dresses were everywhere on the Milan runways, imparting cozy glamour to their wearers.

At Max Mara, a form-hugging cable knit grey dress enclosed the lithe model within, the pattern knit at a diagonal to better follow her curves.

Wide ribbed bands evoking Japanese obis on kimonos cinched the waists of pants or skirts, while oversized ribbed black sweaters were paired with long skirts, the only exposed skin revealed at the neck.

Fendi evoked British style in its knitwear, but there was nothing staid in the collection, with capes jauntily tossed over one shoulder, or shrug-like sweaters worn over jackets that covered the neck and arms but not the torso.

The debut of Argentine designer Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino offered up an oversized cable knit camel sweater and pearls — a classic concept subverted by the addition of an asymmetrical red ruffled skirt over grey slacks.

– Mustard to Moss Green –

Although the warm autumnal shades of mustard and moss green have been seen before in seasons past, they continue to have traction.

Roberto Cavalli designer Fausto Puglisi chose a mustardy yellow for the marble-inspired fabric stitching his creations, while a brighter tone popped from a satin strapless gown at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.

Gucci chose mustard for a roomy sweater jacket with a plunging neckline while opting for moss green for hot pants with a matching long leather coat.

At Alberta Ferretti, the green shade imbued a luxurious wool overcoat and matching shawl, and was seen on a long satin slip dress with a lace bodice.

A belted coat with generous lapels and a thick plush vertical border was seen in soft moss at Fendi, where designer Kim Jones teased the colour into other garments and accessories, including over-the-knee leather boots and arm warmers.

© 2024 AFP