PITTSFIELD — I was intrigued by the notion that an “estaminet” was opening in the downtown.

It’s a French word for a small bistro, usually with a unique atmosphere. Kato brought the car around for a trip to Dorothy’s Estaminet, an expansion of Dottie’s Coffee Lounge into the space that used to be known as Mission.

Kato found a spot in the parking lot next to the restaurant this cold weekend evening. Entering through the coffee lounge, we were escorted past the first room where the live music was set, into the revised space. A small wooden bar is placed at the rear, with high top chairs and tables adjacent. In the front, where Kato and I were seated, was a row of tables for two with a long banquette against the stucco wall. Windows at the front look out onto North Street, while a wall of pictures in mismatched frames and various knick knacks create a bohemian feel.

Kato sat with his back to the wall, watching attentively as diners streamed in. Every table was taken. Live music was featured this evening, as it will be every Thursday through Saturday. “Misty Blues,” a local favorite, was well into their first set as a very friendly and knowledgeable host explained how the menu works and took our drink orders, recommending mocktails tailored to the taste profiles we prefer.

The drinks arrived promptly, mine tasting like a margarita. Kato’s peach and seltzer drink was light and pleasant as well.

As for the  food, Dorothy’s will be serving “The Dorothy’s Experience” — a prix fixe “plus” approach. For $35, you receive a large and delightfully conceived mezze plate. You pick your protein or vegetarian option from a list including a ribeye, chicken or a mushroom tempeh kebab, which may add to the base price depending on your choice, and dessert from a list that will change periodically. Drinks are additional.

Kato and I both chose the salmon fillet. Kato tapped his knife against the table, keeping time with the band. He eschewed a career as a rock drummer in his home country years ago, preferring the crime-fighting, bodyguard business, but music remains in his soul. 

The mezze plate, called “The Experience,” is a meal itself. Artful on the plate and bountiful on the palate, the dish includes hummus garnished with fried capers and pomegranate seeds, whipped feta, tzatziki, chimichurri, olive tapenade, roasted parsnips and potatoes, broccoli rabe and a divine rosemary focaccia, cut into slices of a perfect size to snag the dips.

I worked methodically counter clockwise through the dips,  pausing for a sip of the lovely mocktail. I concluded my tour with the hot chimichurri and olive tapenade. Kato had finished most of the potatoes by the time I was ready, but they were cooked well and the parsnips provided a contrasting sweet bite. The broccoli rabe gave bitterness, while the pickled onions and radishes brought the acidity. The hummus was well-made, with crunchy pomegranate seeds offering gushes of sweetness. The chimichurri deserves a special shout out — its balance and consistency was spot-on. I give this approach high marks.

Half-way through our devouring, the salmon arrived — a 6 ounce portion on a wooden plank adorned with a slice of lemon and branch of fresh dill. The salmon was baked — more of a slow cook, really, providing a very soft mouthfeel. There is little in the way of flavor enhancement here — you must provide what you like from the items on the table.

It was at this point that Kato could hold back no longer and asked to sit in with the band. Mercifully, they were ready to break. A defeated bodyguard returned to the table. Since dessert was quite spectacular, the glum mood of my companion did not last long.

During our meal, I learned that Dorothy’s has recruited a recent graduate from the Culinary Institute of America, in Hyde Park, N.Y., as the baker at the new venture. If this night is any indication, we are fortunate to have such a dessert talent in our midst.

I ordered the pavlova with raspberry compote and chantilly cream. Kato opted for the Earl Grey panna cotta. Pavlova is a daring choice, but it exceeded expectations. The meringue was light and broke easily with a spoon, allowing me to scoop up the compote and cream for a complete bite. Kato shared a taste of the panna cotta which was set perfectly and sported the delicate flavor of the tea. It was hard not to want to order another round of desserts.

As the band resumed, Kato and I walked back through the rooms — Kato taking one last look at the drum kit as we stepped into the chilly winter night. With the Auburn gliding along North Street, we discussed where we would dine next.

For more restaurant reviews, visit BerkshiresWeek.com.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Dorothy’s Estaminet

444 North St., Pittsfield

dottiescoffeelounge.com

Hours: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday – Saturday

Price: Prix fixe menu starts at $35.