First New York, then London, and now Milan: fashion forges ahead, recounting the continuous evolution of the clothing industry. Manifesto of a feeling that’s a product of our time, the fall-winter 2024/2025 collections bring clothes and accessories for everyday living to the runway. Prêt-à-porter, after all, suggests ready-to-wear solutions freezing the world in motion, framing it in the endless web of current trends. Behind the lens of fantastic fabrics and graphic prints, then, new creations fill the wardrobe by tracing — coincidental — connections with the objects that surround us. As our Design Favorites of the Week reveal, in fact, the fortuitous cross-references between clothes and furnishings multiply from printed graphics to the use of yarns, and chromatic trends.
Marble effect: Roberto Cavalli + Del Conca
Often leaning into the sauvage nature of tropical atmospheres, the most passionate animal print in Italian fashion gives way — for the first time — to the sleek spirit of the stone effect: Roberto Cavalli’s woman has embraced marble. An expression of ante-litteram luxury and a decorative element of classicism par excellence, the stone material sheds its heavy weight in Fausto Puglisi’s hands to become a simple pattern: dematerialized, the veins now run across oversized quilts, ultra-short skirts and long dresses, creating a marble effect that, in the spaces we inhabit, is investigated by advanced technologies applied to ceramics. A new example of this can be found in the Marble Edition collection by Del Conca: produced with Dinamika, an innovative technology creating three-dimensional surfaces, the slabs in the series feature decorative surfaces replicating marble freshly extracted from the quarry, embellishing porcelain stoneware with different processes.
Lana 3D: Erdem + Cappelen Dimyr
Speaking of outsized proportions and volumes, we’ve already found the major trend set to arrive this fall: fur (fake, of course). Amid feathers and synthetic weaves mimicking the richer and more ostentatious coats of the natural world, Erdem sews a woolen fleece reminiscent of soft sheep hair onto oversized coats. It’s a dense rhythm of woven fibers that, in Cappelen Dimyr’s catalog, becomes a distinctive feature. Here, the Scandinavian atelier founded in 2019 imagines a domestic landscape where the textile component is everything: carpets, tapestries, and blankets vaunting generous textures dress the home to craft a special bohemian atmosphere.
Multicolor shadings: Del Core + Wekino
Although solids and color-blocking play into styling — the mainstay of these latest fashion shows — formal research pushes aesthetic literacy toward more elaborate graphics. Daniel Del Core, for example, focuses on the natural micro-world, opening his gaze to the universe of insects. In a sort of metamorphosis accompanying the dress-cocoon as it evolves into naked livery, entomology is the inspiration for multicolored prints that seem to liquefy. It’s a play on colors that we also find in the world of furniture with the new 2024 designs by Wekino, where Chroma seamlessly mixes a handful of hues. Designed by Studio-Chacha, the series of mirrors with a strong artistic flair references an old method of textile decoration, founded on the concept of patchwork.
Treccia mania: JW Anderson + Métaphores
Reworking the “grandpa” style with near grotesque articulations, Jonathan Anderson pokes fun both in and out of the closets of the protagonists of Last of the Summer Wine — a British sitcom set in Yorkshire and centered around the lives of retirees — serving up maxi coats with extra-long sleeves, paired with warm yet thin wool and unusual padded mittens. Stealing the show, we find maxi braids used to construct both mini-dresses and shoulder bags. It’s a crossover of woven threads that also emerges in the latest offerings from Métaphores, as seen in Yacht, inspired by the nautical universe recalling the look and texture of rolled up ropes on boat decks.
Composto di fili tubolari intrecciati a maglia in lana vergine, si lega a una catena di cotone riciclato.
The unfinished aesthetic: Diesel + Daniel Arsham x nendo
Last but not least, it’s Glenn Martens at Diesel who breaks out beyond the limits of precision: disruptive and out of the ordinary, yet extremely timely, the brand’s collection features a string of colored denim overcoats lined with a leather effect, tie-dye-like dresses and shirts, and fake fur jackets. The leitmotif of the show is an unfinished hemline that follows the contours of skinny necklines and waists, tracing an unfinished aesthetic that’s also at the heart of the latest Daniel Arsham x nendo collaboration. With Break to Make, the design duo breaks down a selection of furnishings, producing new functions: an armchair emerges from a bathtub-like form; a bench or stool comes from a long, narrow block; and a console table is carved out from a tall, square volume.