I am rarely the first critic into a restaurant, but I am sometimes the last. And so it may prove with Joro, which, having opened in a shipping container unit on Shalesmoor in central Sheffield in 2016, is to move, finally, after years of delay, to a spanking new site at Oughtibridge Mill, on the edge of the Peak District, which promises to be more in keeping with its status as one of the best restaurants in South Yorkshire. And while much will unquestionably be gained — the views will be stupendous, the space full of light and air and the kitchen at last big enough to swing a ladle in — some things will also be lost.

Such as the bizarre accolade of being