CM Chicken shines bright like a beacon in Columbus. No argument there. The Korean fried chicken joint shines so bright, in fact, that it might be a little difficult to see other competing chicken operations, especially of the crunchy Korean fried chicken variety. The awkwardly-spelled bb.q Chicken made its Columbus (and Ohio) debut back in March on Lane Avenue. The eatery is a bona fide giant in the international chicken scene. With roots in South Korea that date back to 1995, bb.q has more than 3,500 locations worldwide and the titan also sponsors some sort of Chicken University. That is to say, bb.q has been doing super-crispy fried chicken since before super-crispy fried chicken was trendy.
Even for a first-timer, the bb.q house menu is pretty easy to navigate. It’s fried chicken. You can get a whole bird, wings or boneless wings. There are flavors you might expect: Honey Garlic, for example. And then there are intriguing options, like Cheesling.
So of course Cheesling ($15 for 8 wings) needs to be first. While the first subject of discussion, Cheesling was not the favorite. It’s chicken in a pale fried shell that’s enhanced with something reminiscent of a sweet-ish mac n’ cheese powder. Although personally an unapologetic fan of instant mac and cheese, the accent doesn’t seem to really do much for the house fried chicken.
The chicken inside, though, is totally respectable: juicy, hot. So, let’s retreat to the comfort of something familiar, something on the lines of Soy Garlic ($14 for 8 boneless). The traditional savory blend is a perfect vehicle for the biggie boneless nuggets, each one bursting with quality chicken – not processed, not chewy – all good meat and encased in a shell that holds its crackle even when challenged with the sauce.
Returning to more interesting opportunities, there’s Gang Je-Ong (back to regular wings $15 for 8), which blends likable savory elements with cinnamon and also spiky heat. The result is another winner, with a distinctly aromatic dimension. Its heat is manageable. Heat fiends should note the availability of several highly spiked options including something called Wings of Fire that claim to be the hottest wings in Korea.
For sides, there are several variations in french fry land, there’s regular, cheesling (it returns!), and a truly solid rendition of Sweet Potato Fries ($6.95) that benefit from both their quantity and their fryer-freshness.
Branching outside of the fried arena, bb.q also serves a selection of Ddeok-Bokki ($13.95), a Korean street food less commonly seen on local menus. It’s rice cakes – not the crunchy healthfood kind, more like a pasta, and slices of fish cake (surimi) in a sweet and spicy sauce. The outcome is not unlike stew. Finished with a sunny egg-half and sesame sprinkle, the spicy dish is a good experiment; it has a cleaner feel and more intense flavors than a western pasta dish.
Since its initial March opening on Lane, bb.q Chicken has added another local spot on Bethel Road with more plans for expansion in town and in Ohio. It’s open daily at 11 a.m. for lunch, snacks and dinner. You’ll find it in the heart of the University District at 17 E. Lane Ave.
For more information, visit bbqchicken.com.
All photos by Susan Post
