Fair Isle, but make it fashion.

For his first fall collection, Duran Lantink went all in on wooly knits. The Dutch designer took skiwear and both shrunk it down, in small vests, and blew it up, using his signature foam padding to create underlying volume. Voluminous often implies billow and flow, but not this — Lantink’s volume is stiff and shielding.

He’s worked with bifurcated “floating” styles before, particularly his bestselling jean, and this season he took on skirts. The construction looked smart with thigh-high socks hitting just underneath a see-through panel, while another version was more butt-bearing. That’s Lantink’s cheeky style. He likes to play with exposure.

Other cues were from ski culture, mixed with streetwear and power dressing as he pushed the proportions of the body. Sculpted shoulders were brought forward in a hump, distorting the posture, while an extreme bust on a knit bodysuit gave new meaning to the word bustier. There are notions of Rei Kawakubo and Lantink is working on establishing his own codes.

“We’re still figuring out what the DNA of Duran Lantink is. We’re trying to create a wardrobe that is also something more wearable,” he said.

Ruby girdle shorts with cropped puffer jackets, lots of fluff in boots and jackets, and low-slung trousers topped with a shrunken padded polo neck all fit that bill. The brand was picked up by Dover Street Market after last season. It’s now in New York and Los Angeles, and will launch in Paris in April.

Other looks included gold shorts with a C-3PO glint paired with thigh-grazing socks, and cozy knitwear chopped up and puffed out to create a spiraling orbit around the body. It was all a bit otherworldly.

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