The cutthroat nature of the restaurant business often sees new, exciting concepts get cut down before they have a chance to realize their potential. With this reality constantly looming over the local dining scene, it’s hard for a new place to be open long enough to get their bugs worked out. There are plenty of restaurants that fit this description right now, but I was quite impressed with Silverside Deli during my last visit. I’ve been here a few times since it opened in spring 2023, and it’s clear that this Sugar House deli has hit its stride.

It’s easy to assume that opening a sandwich shop or deli is an easy concept to pull off—after all, it’s just stuff between two slices of bread, right? If you’re going to make a deli that has any chance of survival, however, you better be cranking out something you can’t get anywhere else. This is where Silverside Deli really succeeds. The menu includes some options you’ve likely seen at other delis around town, but Silverside’s head chef Dash Howell puts his gourmet spin on each sandwich.

For a case study of what I mean, let’s consider the unassuming turkey sub ($15). I can’t tell you how many turkey sandwiches I’ve had from sandwich shops and grocery stores alike, but I can tell you that the turkey sub at Silverside blows them all away. It’s the perfectly textured hoagie roll and the well-seasoned sliced turkey that create the foundation for this sub. Turkey is a tricky protein to feature front and center, as it’s not the most flavorful, but that thick stack of sliced gobbler is as close to perfect as you can get.

On top of that, you get a generous swipe of mayo, the creaminess of which is bolstered by the olive-and-pickled-pepper cream cheese spread. I like a turkey sub swimming in mayo, and that’s exactly what you get here. In the produce section, this sub gets some thinly sliced onion—just enough to provide a hint of flavor without overpowering the sandwich—shredded iceberg lettuce, sliced tomato and vinegary banana peppers. The veggies are tossed with some olive oil and a honey balsamic glaze and stuffed into the hoagie roll, making for a delightful mix of flavors and textures. My only small gripe is that after a while, this veggie-and-sauce combo can make the sandwich a little soggy if you’re getting it to-go.

Their roast beef sandwich ($15) is on the menu through March, and it’s yet another reinvention of a classic deli fixture. The arugula, fried onions and horseradish sauce make this one stand out, though all that tender, thinly-sliced roast beef doesn’t hurt any. It’s all stacked between two thick slices of white bread swirled with rye—classic deli from top to bottom right here.

On the hot sandwich side of the menu, Silverside has gleefully thrown its hat in the fried-chicken sandwich ring. They’ve got a spicy chicken ($14) and a honey buffalo chicken ($14). If you want to simply dip your toe into the spicy chicken spectrum, the honey buffalo chicken is the way to go. They like to go big with their sandwich stuffings at Silverside; my honey buffalo chicken sandwich arrived with two enormous pieces of their panko-crusted fried chicken thighs that were barely contained by the ciabatta roll. This is an excellent take on both buffalo wings and the hot chicken sandwich, as you’ve got a cool, creamy ranch sauce to temper the heat along with some thick-sliced pickles for good measure. Those who do want to leave scorch marks on their tongue will want to get the spicy chicken sandwich at the fire spice level—this’ll give you plenty of burn for your buck.

Other luminaries on the sandwich menu include an eggplant parmigiano ($15) that does a great job of transferring this classic Italian dish into a sandwich; it’s the rosemary vodka sauce and the cherry pepper relish that really send this over the top. I am also a fan of the chopped cheese sandwich ($14), an unapologetic mixture of a cheesesteak sandwich and a patty melt with plenty of grilled onions and pepper.

For those Silverside fans who have managed to sample everything on the menu, it’s worth checking out the deli’s monthly mystery sandwich ($14). You won’t find a description online, and the Silverside team is forbidden to say anything about this menu item, so don’t bother asking. It’s a “buy the ticket, take the ride” kind of deal, and far be it from me to spoil the fun. All I’ll say is that these monthly mysteries have had an excellent track record from yours truly.

From the gourmet sandwiches to the expertly prepared sides—their Cajun fries are near-perfect examples of the French fry discipline—Silverside Deli is pulling out all the stops and having a blast in the process. Mixed with the prompt service and bustling community of regulars, Silverside embodies everything you want from a neighborhood deli.