Hiraeth, a Short North project from the owners of Chapman’s, made its debut in August, smack dab in the heat of the sweltering summer. The origin of its name is Welsh, and the term translates as “longing for home.” Home, in this Short North setting, offers guests two distinctly different reservation-only experiences. Hiraeth hosts a contemporary ground-level dinging room with clean lines and big windows. Then there is the basement. It’s not a basement in the dungeon-sense, it’s more like an elite tavern illuminated in part by the glow of a busy open kitchen and its wood-fired oven.
Entrees from Hiraeth’s menu start around fifty bucks…and extend into triple digits for a big ribeye. It’s undoubtably fine-dining but there are plenty of smaller, less-pricy treasures to be found in the Mezze department of the menu.
So, “mezze” is the Mediterranean version of tapas, or small plates. Given that Hiraeth’s name is a distinctly Welsh word from an entirely different culture, you’ve got a strong signal that the dining menu will reflect an eclectic mix of influences.
Let’s start with the Cauliflower. Why? Because Chapman’s is famous for its General Tso’s Cauliflower. It therefore stands to reason that Hiraeth’s rendering of the vegetable might be almost as special. Roasted Cauliflower ($16) here takes on a southwestern influence. Served with some brightening pickled red onion, queso fresco and the inevitable cilantro, the vegetable itself shines. In roasted form, the cauliflower is flavorful in its own right, even without its snappy companions.
Move on to something on the lines of the Housemade Cavatelli ($25). Finished with substantial shards of lean bacon and tender heads of broccoli, the folds of the ridged pasta scrolls offer an apt vehicle to carry a punchy fresh parmesan flavor that defines each bite.
For something more meaty, there are the Char Siu Ribs ($18). Served with artfully-rolled fresh pickles, an order renders an appealing primal collection of individually cut meaty bones, each one firmly braced in savory walls of meat that exploit a classic sweet-and-salty treatment aligned with traditional Asian influences.
There’s a little something for everyone in the house mezze department. Guests will also find salads, BYO hand rolls, and a house naan bread that exploits the properties of the kitchen’s wood-fired oven. The sides section is worth checking out, as it offers creative budget-friendly snacks as well, including beef-fat roasted potatoes teamed with chimichurri, creme fraiche and trout roe.
The beverage menu offers all sorts of cleverly-named innovative combinations. Case in point, a drink called Can’t We All Get Oolong? ($14) The combo is based on tequila that’s been infused with oolong tea and amped up with spiced honey and lemon. In addition to cocktails, beer and wine, the beverage menu features a selection of low and no-alcohol beverages that includes Espresso Tonic (as the name implies, it’s espresso syrup and tonic water).
As is the case in any creative establishment, the menu shifts on a regular basis, but the kitchen’s influences are varied enough that it shouldn’t be difficult to find something to please your palate.
Reservations are available online and required for the dining rooms, but impulse grazing is an ideal option at the street-level bar where seating is first-come first-serve; no reservations required. It’s open Tuesdays through Saturdays at 36 E. Lincoln St.
For more information, visit hiraeth614.com.
All photos by Susan Post
