MILAN — Call it the Alaïa effect.

The brand’s viral mesh ballet flats — which were seen everywhere front row during the past show marathon — sparked a fashion craving for easier-to-wear yet stylish footwear that dominated the runways across London, Milan and Paris.

For spring 2024, in the accessory arena the quiet luxury trend went hand in hand with comfort dressing, with vertiginous stilettos giving way to elegant flats, mary janes, kitten heels, fisherman shoes and even flip-flops. The most covetable style? Spa dressing à la The Row, where slippers and jelly flat shoes matching the brand’s sought-after capacious bags like the Margaux design went straight onto every buyer’s wishlist.

“Ballet flats and mary janes are the top items on our customers’ lists right now,” said Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director of beauty and accessories at Bloomingdale’s.

Matchesfashion’s head of women’s wear Cassie Smart confirmed flats’ momentum, noting that mesh designs keep selling out on the retailer’s platform and that the Alaïa ones are the top-searched items.

“Customers are still going after the same key bag brands; however, we can definitely see a shift in how they buy footwear with ballerinas and kitten heels dominating alongside biker boots versus last year’s platforms and ultra-ornate pumps,” noted Ida Petersson, buying director at Browns.

Printemps’ buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear Maud Pupato echoed that there are currently fewer requests for “high heels and sexy attitude” in lieu of comfort, while Neiman Marcus’ vice president of luxury fashion Jodi Kahn noted how “the grounding effect of this footwear helped offset the leggy and sheerness seen in the ready-to-wear” during the past month. 

Bags mirrored the overarching inclination for functionality, with big, soft designs overall replacing the party-ready teeny-tiny clutch, as seen in the multipocket bags and canvas styles at Miu Miu, the capacious bags at Loewe and Victoria Beckham and hobo designs at Valentino and Courrèges. The winner of the season was still Bottega Veneta, praised for the craftsmanship and variety of its styles, encompassing the new Lauren 1980 clutch and renditions of the Cabat and Sardine bags, among others. 

“Customers are moving their focus to understated accessories, rather than logo-led pieces,” said Josie Gardner, head of accessories and shoes at Harrods, pointing as an example to the fact that “Loro Piana’s extra pocket pouch continually has a waiting list” at the retailer.

“We are also seeing a growing demand for larger carryall bags: Bottega Veneta’s Andiamo, Celine’s Conti and The Row’s Margaux are leading the way,” added Gardner.

“We continue to see a rise in search and sales of soft hobos and totes. Soft suedes and warm brown shades are coming through,” said Smart, highlighting that there’s huge demand for super luxurious investments. 

“Practicality and long-term investments are the key words for the coming seasons, with a touch of statement and fun [details],” agreed Pupato. 

Cue the rise of vibrant colors that marked spring 2024’s accessories, as best exemplified in Prada‘s satin mules that won over buyers, or the pastel kitten heels seen at Roger Vivier, for one.

“We were happy to see more color options in accessories such as sky blue, pistachio, chartreuse and the always popular pop of red,” said Kahn. Marta Gramaccioni, buying director at LuisaViaRoma, said that the Italian store’s clients are particularly “picking up on the burgundy color for the bags,” a trend that is set to be further fueled by the new cherry shade Gucci’s creative director Sabato De Sarno has picked to mark his tenure at the Italian house. 

Speaking of, De Sarno also relied on statement golden jewelry to elevate the clean lines of his fashion. Jewelry was also key at shows such as Schiaparelli and shined at Loewe, where Jonathan Anderson collaborated with American artist Lynda Benglis on fine pieces mirroring the monumental bronze sculptures that punctuated the runway. 

At Saint Laurent, chunky bangles and earrings further glamorized Anthony Vaccarello’s daytime looks. Belts were key for the designer, and also became a strategic piece at Prada, where they both cinched the waist of models and adorned bags; at Louis Vuitton, where a buckle-free version took center stage, and at Stella McCartney, where embroidered tuxedo alternatives made an appearance.

“In a season where ‘quiet luxury’ stood out prominently, such accessories shifted the focus of attention on the silhouette,” noted Rinascente’s head of fashion Federica Montelli. 

The fashion season also provided lots of opportunity for brand scouting, with new names popping up and promising to become a regular in customers’ carts in the future. Buyers pointed to Le Monde Béryl as a new go-to shoe brand that will fuel the overall quest for refined flats and day-to-night styles, and to Savette and Maeden brands as not-to-miss when it comes to bags. 

Here, 10 buyers make their top accessories picks for spring 2024:

Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director, beauty and accessories at Bloomingdale’s  

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: Comfortable, chic footwear continues to be important and the spring 2024 runways were filled with kitten heels, ballet flats and flat simple sandals. The Chanel mary jane [flats] were perfect. I loved the range of canvas bags at Miu Miu.

Top trends: Red is a key color that continues into spring 2024. We also saw beautiful pastels within accessories, like buttery yellow and pale blue. Natural materials like raffia are expected for spring but the new material emerging within shoes and handbags is mesh. Ballet flats have proven to be the perfect vehicle for mesh but now we are seeing it in handbags as well.

Must-have items: The bucket bag, the kitten heel, the ballet flat, statement sculptural jewelry.

Ida Petersson, buying director at Browns

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: I am torn between the satin kitten heels at Prada or the jelly ballerina pumps at The Row.

Favorite accessories as seen at presentations: Gianvito Rossi’s gold gladiator pumps, monochrome chic bags and shoes from Jimmy Choo and Aquazzura’s denim pearl embellished kitten heels.

Top trends: Flats and kitten heels, sizable totes and chic evening pouches.

Must-have items: The ultimate puzzle tote from Loewe, Prada’s Re-nylon totes with fringing, The Row’s Margaux pouch, Valentino’s cage kitten heels and we can’t stop thinking about Loewe’s rhinestone ballerinas.

Emerging accessories brands to watch: Carel is going from strength to strength, with customers still going crazy for their mary janes. We’re also really excited about new sustainable bag brand Maeden, who has designed a very elevated and timeless collection that we think will really resonate with our customers.

Josie Gardner, head of accessories and shoes at Harrods

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: The models adorned in the statement bracelet cuffs seen across Saint Laurent, Rabanne, Loewe and Schiaparelli in Paris were a solid favorite, reflecting a strong move away from logo-led jewelry and instead reflecting an artisanal and creative sensibility. I also can’t forget Simone Rocha’s romantic wedding inspired accessories; the pearl wedding cake clutch bag is a must-have as well as the encrusted Crocs collaboration.

Favorite accessories as seen at presentations: Loro Piana’s presentation in Milan was totally effortless. It featured a new ballet shoe and a large carryall top-handle bag, two key shapes that have been missing and I am sure will be top of many of our customers’ wishlists. The succulent leathers and immaculate attention to detail set them apart from many of the luxury accessories brands of today.

Top trends: The folding tote as seen at Fendi and Bottega. The ballerina, seen on almost every runway. Statement belts, seen at Louis Vuitton, Prada, Saint Laurent.

Must-have items: Loewe’s fruit-inspired beaded Squeeze bag and the Loewe crystal ballet slippers.

Emerging accessories brands to watch: With their luscious leather and opulent hardware, Savette has stormed onto the scene. Their simple yet iconic bag shapes are evolving each season to rival the big brands. We are excited about the developments at DeMellier, the British leather good brand. There is a gap in the accessible accessories market which we hope they will be the answer to.

Marta Gramaccioni, buying director at LuisaViaRoma

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: The Row’s Margaux maxi clutch, not easy to wear but very chic. With this bag every outfit seems elevated.

Top trends: Clutch and bauletto bags in the extra-large version.

Must-have items: The new Lauren 1980 clutch with chain from the Bottega Veneta fashion show.

Emerging accessories brands to watch: Not super new but super cool: Savette.

Cassie Smart, head of womenswear at Matchesfashion

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: The craft and texture in the bags at Bottega Veneta, from the super luxurious oversized Cabat baskets in leather to the new developments in the Sardine. The spa-style silk slipper slides at The Row styled with the black tailoring and the toe ring felt super luxe and chic for evenings. The Prada 100-year-old bag designed by Mario Prada, purely for the collector.

Favorite accessories as seen at presentations: The high-summer story of lemons and bumble bees in crochet and crystal at Aquazzura in Milan. The craft element shone through and lifted the linen.

Top trends: Flats continue to dominate the runway, oversized textured and craft bags, silver jewelry.

Must-have items: The Row’s spa silk pool slides; Dries Van Noten’s new sneaker looked great paired with the super long trenchcoat and socks; Simone Rocha’s Crocs; Bottega Veneta’s Sardine bag; all the bags at Prada, especially the reimagined archival bag designed by Mario Prada in 1913. Such a collectable.

Emerging accessories brands to watch: Le Monde Béryl. We’ve worked with Le Monde Béryl since they first launched the brand and the development into the mary jane has helped accelerate their growth. I am super excited with the future development expanding into different leathers and fabrications with a further buildout in mesh and beautiful luxe satin colors.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer at Mytheresa

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: I loved the new Gucci jewelry that was featured in the launch campaign under Sabato De Sarno‘s new direction. Another favorite are the Gucci flatform loafers.

Must-have items: Y/Project’s slouchy boots, The Row’s jelly shoes and the Bottega Veneta newspaper bag really stood out to me.

Emerging accessories brands to watch: Grace Ling’s body jewelry that was part of her ready-to-wear was amazing.

Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: My favorites of the season were the Prada satin pumps and square toe slides, both shown in track-stopping saturated satins in tangerine, chartreuse and magenta. The white woven accessories at Valentino, both the mini kitten heels and open hobo bag, felt fresh for spring while flexing the brand’s incredible craftsmanship. Gucci updated some house signatures, and we have a feeling the flatform loafers and crystal-encrusted Jackie bag will be very popular next season.  

Favorite accessories as seen at presentations: Aquazzura presented their whimsical, raffia fruit adorned shoes in a stunning historic palazzo, complete with lemon trees on the terrace. In Paris, both Roger Vivier and Christian Louboutin have mastered the showmanship of sensory-provoking presentations. Vivier had unique immersive rooms for different collection themes: chandeliers for Cinderella-like shoes, a red room showing off their signature heart and a neutral room featuring jewel adorned raffia options. At Louboutin, a performance blending dancers and technology was an exciting exploration of how we might see tech enhance presentations in the future, not to mention the show-stopping allover crystal embellished boots. 

Top trends: Flats and kitten heels remain very important. We saw loafers, mary janes and slides in all of the cities, even boat shoes at Miu Miu. The grounding effect of this footwear helped offset the leggy and sheerness seen in the ready-to-wear. In handbags, functionality was top of mind. Most bags were large enough to fit everything you would need, including the emergence of the shoulder bag. Never sacrificing beauty for utility, we enjoyed the experimentation of woven and whip stitching that added texture and a special touch, seen at Fendi, Etro, Loewe and Bottega Veneta. There was an abundance of embossed leather bags in all shapes giving the perfect amount of texture and a great update to a classic category.  

Must-have items: The gold trompe l’oeil Schiaparelli sneaker, the espresso brown satin Prada pump, and the timeless embossed handbags from Loewe.  

Emerging accessories brands to watch: As flats are the big story of the season, we are so excited to have Le Monde Béryl and Carel join the Neiman Marcus family. Both offer mary janes and ballerinas in chic shapes and sharp price points. Must-haves for your wardrobe. 

Kate Benson, buying director at Net-a-porter

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: There was some fantastic newness in the bags category this season, which our customers are really craving. Leading the way was Bottega Veneta; we particularly loved the oversized chocolate Intrecciato leather tote and the “banana leaf” bag. I am also really enjoying the development of Ferragamo’s bags across many of its new lines, but especially the Hug oversized clutch. My favorite shoes were platform loafers at Gucci, sock sandals at Jil Sander and heeled sandals at Loewe. Jewelry was also a real highlight this season and a category we will be investing in, with special mention to Simone Rocha, Saint Laurent and Tom Ford.

Top trends: My top trend callout for spring 2024 in accessories is pops of color. Last season was all about red, which continues to be important, but we are now also seeing acid yellow, turquoise and forest green. Bags really came to the forefront again this season and I particularly loved that they were super-sized. Roses were also a consistent theme, as seen at Chloé, Balmain and Simone Rocha, amongst others.

Must-have items: The Row jelly shoes encapsulated the ‘90s overarching nostalgia of the entire season, these will be a sure-fire hit for the summer ahead, alongside the fisherman sandal, by Loewe and JW Anderson. 

Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: Bottega Veneta’s big green basket bag is both sophisticated and hype; a pair of sparkling ballerinas from Loewe for comfort and attitude; Courrèges mules to break the dance floor as theirs broke the runway; a statement The Attico feathers or crystal pump; a lady bag from Ferragamo to invest in that very settled quiet luxury trend; Cecilie Banhsen x Asics sequin embroidered sneakers for a touch of raw poesy; the Coperni Walkman bag for good sound; Crocs at Simone Rocha.

Favorite accessories as seen at presentations: Gia’s wedge flip-flop in brown for a nonchalant cool walk; Awake’s colored shoes with lips, tassels and studs; Hodakova’s bag; Nensi Dojaka’s poetic shoes.

Top trends: In shoes: loafers/brogues in line with the quiet luxury trend, adding coziness and masculinity to the outfits (Prada, Loewe, Miu Miu, Ferragamo); ballerinas in all kinds, like mesh, crystals, leather, classic, open back (Carven, Loewe, The Row, Versace); statement shoes with a strong identity via feathers, crystals, colors (The Attico, Awake); flip-flops completing directional looks (Miu Miu, Coperni, Chanel). In bags: lady bag for practicality and empowering attitude (Ferragamo, The Row, Dries Van Noten); clutches or big pouches worn under the arm (Gauchere, The Row, Carven, Bottega, Jil Sander); shoulder bags and hobo bags are thriving (Burberry, Loewe, Gucci, Courrèges).

Must-have items: Miu Miu’s flip-flops; Prada’s squared brogues; Loewe’s bucket bag; Carven’s pouch; Courrèges’ new hobo bag.

Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente

Favorite accessories as seen on the runway: All of Prada’s accessories instantly became must-have items while on the runway. My favorites are the everyday tote bag with the belt detail, and the satin kitten-heeled mules. Loewe’s Squeeze bag, which is already sold out in stores, was strongly pushed again on the spring 2024 runway, thus creating even stronger demand. I’d also add to the list Miu Miu’s suede boat shoes and multipocket bags. Last but not least, Gucci’s wedge loafer.

Favorite accessories as seen at presentations: Bucket bags are an interesting item that’s making a comeback, along with anything that has a weaving detail (especially full leather styles, not only raffia) creating a strong demand for a new interpretation of a summer bag. Bow details, mesh and plexiglass were presented in shoe collections from Christian Louboutin, Mach & Mach and Jimmy Choo.

Top trends: Big bags are steadily on the rise: from the bauletto bag that doubles up as a weekender as seen at Ferragamo and Bally, to clutch bags in oversize format (i.e. the all-Swarovski animation at Burberry) or giant shoppers, where my favorite one was from Coperni, with extra-long handles. The toe-detail on heel sandals and the return of the flip-flop (i.e Chanel) is another top trend.

Must-have items: Undoubtedly ballerinas, which could be seen on every single runway in different iterations. From The Row to Proenza Schouler, from Loewe to Dior and Valentino they span from ballet satin slippers to soft mesh shoes to mary janes. Fishermen sandals will be another staple shoe for spring 2024 daily wear. I would also bet on statement belts. In a season where “quiet luxury” stood out prominently, such accessories shifted the focus of attention on the silhouette. My favorites were the double belts from Prada and the tuxedo belt from Stella McCartney.

Emerging accessories brands to watch: Not an emerging brand, but I appreciated Simone Bellotti’s new take on Bally. I also loved Hereu’s innovative summer bags, soft ballerinas and fisherman sandals.