A decade or so ago, plant-based restaurants were fairly uncommon in Columbus. Today, as eating sensibilities and trends have evolved, so also have opportunities to find restaurants that feature menus devoted exclusively to vegetarian and vegan fare. The local line-up include both OG players like Portia’s and Dosa Corner, as well as more recent additions such as Seitan’s Realm, Greenhouse Canteen, Willowbeez SoulVeg, Comune and E Burger (formerly Eden Burger).
Let’s add Zammy’s Vegan Kitchen to the list too. It’s a little further out than its plant peddling colleagues, as the eateries tend to thrive in the city’s centrally located neighborhoods. Still, a short trip north to a suburban strip mall will reward a curious diner with a tidy, streamlined spot to score a tasty, sustaining, plant-centered meal.
Being a vegan establishment, you won’t find eggs, milk or traditional cheese on the menu. And no meat. So, any reference herein to those sorts of items will be short-hand for house-made versions that approximate the animal products. That said, Zammy’s offerings shouldn’t be defined by absences or substitutes. That which is present speaks for itself.
Let’s start with its all-day breakfast that puts the Breakfast Burrito ($11) on the agenda at any time. It’s jam-packed with a dense mix of hash browns, sautéed peppers, onions, black beans, and a few imposters that work really well: The house version of “eggs” provide mostly texture, while the plant-based cheese and bacon provide the savory zing that would make it hard to notice the absence of traditional ingredients.
There’s also a burger section on the menu. The Zammy ($10) features a house-made tvp (texturized vegetable protein) patty with a sturdy heft that approximates a traditional burger. It’s seated on a quality brioche bun that gives an upscale touch to the whole combo. It’s also loaded up with lettuce, tomato, a ton of savory soft caramelized onions, a slice of non-dairy cheese and zingy orange house sauce. All in, it’s a bargain burger for $10.
You’ll likely want fries with that, and fries are on the menu for sure…but if you back up a little to the appetizer section, you’ll find a world of french fries that are dressed up with extra toppings. Consider Taco Fries, Bacon Fries, or the inevitable Zammy’s Fries ($12), which tops the stubby, hand-cut fries with a crushed veggie burger, shredded non-dairy cheese, dots of diced pickles and the house sauce to tie it all together. Perhaps a little ambitious as a pairing with a burger, but most worthy of stomach space.
There is an array of creative sandwiches too. The menu includes some chick’n (faux chicken patties) offerings, quesadillas and gyros as well. Vegan grilled cheese sandwiches have not, traditionally, been a favorite; when it comes to approximating the textural elements of melted cheese, non-dairy versions have been on the struggle bus. At Zammy’s, though the Pressed Pesto Grilled Cheese ($8) adds in a dynamite sunflower pesto and fresh tomatoes. It’s not trying to be a grilled cheese sandwich, and can be celebrated instead as a tasty garden sandwich.
There’s also a drink scene. Specifically, a milkshake scene, or even more specifically, an oat milkshake scene. The house leverages oat milk ice cream, and if you time it right, you can score a smooth and satisfying Pumpkin Spice ($8) version in time for the holidays.
Zammy’s is a fast-casual operation with limited seating. It can be found at 1155 Worthington Woods Blvd. from 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
For more information, visit zammysvegan.com.
All photos by Susan Post
