Victor’s Taco Shop has been hovering around Columbus for some time. In fact, the mini-chain’s very first location made its debut just north of Columbus in Delaware nearly a decade ago. After that, the operation expanded to other locations as far flung as Lima and as nearby as Powell. A few months ago, Victor’s finally closed in on Columbus proper, setting up shop in a former Rally’s on Morse Road.
From the outside, the new taco shop looks like lots of fun. It benefits from the building’s original funky roofline that makes it look like it’s about to take flight. From the inside…welp, that’s not actually a subject for assessment. Victor’s is drive-through or take-away only. It does have some picnic-style seating, if that’s your thing.
Regardless, it still feels like a step-up from Taco Bell. That said, appropriate expectations will be important. Victor’s offerings fit best in the Tex-Mex category – lots of melted cheese on stuff, with the crunchy, pale lettuce and diced tomatoes. Some of the offerings can come across as Americanized, and they’ll hit that comfort food spot. To be sure, there is plenty of interest in this approach in the local dining scene.
So, in the tradition of big Midwestern appetites, let’s jump right in with Carne Asada Super Nachos ($10.99). Being steak-based, Carne Asada can be risky at a casual operation, as the ideal target between tough niblets and overly chemically tenderized meat can be tough to hit. Victor’s manages it just fine…but the steak isn’t truly the star of the dish. It’s the whole mass of glorious mess: chips with beans, sour cream, cheese sauce, shredded cheese, jalapeños and pico de gallo and guacamole in more of a saucy format. The wings of the aptly salty chips carry a veritable casserole on their backs.
Big combos are, as it turns out, a nice place on the menu to linger. Hit that Big OH Burrito ($9.99). It’s got chicken, rice, sour cream, cheese, pico de gallo and lettuce. Although rice is generally an abomination in burritos, it is an abomination that can be overlooked as the balance of other ingredients offset its contributions. Get that burrito enchilada-style ($1.99), and it’ll be bathed in enchilada sauce that enhances the tortilla shell and infuses it with flavor too.
Of course, there are more modest options. Case in point, Street Tacos ($2.99). Available in a host of flavors that include the aforementioned steak and chicken, and extend to additional options that include chorizo and carnitas. Both of the latter (chorizo and carnitas) are serviceable, but they suffer in comparison with the extra-ness of the bigger menu combo dishes.
The tortas perform better on these standards. The Birria version ($9.50) features the soft, comforting beef that defines a birria dish. It shares real estate inside a soft bun with lettuce, pico, more of that saucy guac, and some fries on the side fill out the meal.
The menu offerings extend into breakfast too, so there’s an option to start the day with the house omelets and breakfast burritos. You can find Victors’ at 2110 Morse Rd. It’s open daily from 8 a.m. until 10 p.m.
For more information, visit victorstacoshopohio.com.
All photos by Susan Post