Held on Saturday evening at LA Fashion Week in Hollywood, the Luis De Javier show was the highlight of the week. The Spanish prodigy presented his “La Ruta” Spring-Summer 2024 collection, with the notable presence of Riccardo Tisci, the former creative director of Burberry and Givenchy, who has been De Javier’s mentor for the past year and a half.

The young London-based designer who launched his label in 2020 and made a name for himself at New York Fashion Week last March, has over the past few seasons won over some heavyweight celebrities, especially in California, as well as Beyoncé, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner who fell in love with his dresses.

A rising star to whom Riccardo Tisci offered his encouragement shortly before the show: “I’m so happy to have been at your side to guide you through this experience! My greatest reward has been to see you soak it all in, and to see you draw and style with such passion! My final piece of advice: enjoy the show, truly and deeply, because first times only come once.”

Entitled “La Ruta”, the queer, dark, sexy and chic new collection, reimagined the 90s hardcore rave movement in Spain called “La Ruta del Bakalao”, which was shut down by an oppressive movement. “Fashion has always mirrored and explored socio-political issues,” said De Javier. “With this collection, we want to reflect, question and spark a dialogue on pressing matters, like the rise of a nationalist, far-right political party, that are affecting Spain and the world today.”

In the middle of a packed standing crowd, Luis De Javier showed his 25 looks, starting with a black latex dress paired with a sweatshirt worn as a veil. This was followed by a series of genderfluid corsets, puffed-sleeve effects with a religious allure, leather jackets with biker armor and oversized jackets combined with bikini.

Playing on heaven and hell, his silhouettes were inspired by the devil with horns, long dresses and sharp black nails. While masked and caped heroines seemed to show a path of resistance, walking to the techno music of LSDXOXO.

“Last night was only the beginning” shared De Javier on his Instagram account. “Ready to deliver sex on legs every season. Thank you to my mentor Riccardo Tisci for guiding me through this new chapter, I will hold this forever in my heart.”