Restaurant Review: Narbona


I was intrigued when I heard buzz about another Miami restaurant strutting up to Boca. Plus, it had a market and wine shop component. When I heard its name, I realized I had already experienced Narbona’s hospitality—but in its home country of Uruguay.

When we visited Argentina’s wine region years ago, we made a point to explore what its neighbor, Uruguay, was growing and pouring. Narbona’s flagship wine lodge is a snapshot into the past, with antique musical instruments, classic cars and motorcycles, checkered flooring, an ancient stone well, and a whimsical wisteria-adorned patio where guests sip on Narbona’s wines while enjoying a typical cheesy provoleta topped with herbs from the adjacent garden.

Back in its Boca location, Narbona is a restaurant-market hybrid where you can purchase its house-made dry pasta, private-label herbs and honey, fresh fish and meats and much more, or opt for a sit-down lunch or dinner at its restaurant in the center of it all.

If you want to start your meal decadently, order the Cinco Jotas Manchego board. It’s a $55 appetizer easily shared by four that is crafted tableside by a skillful master who delicately carves thin slices of the Iberian ham with his razor-sharp knife and assembles them in a half-moon mirrored by the semi-hard sheep cheese. The Spanish take pride in cultivating these special Iberian pigs raised to roam oak pastures, where they forage for the acorns that give their meat the distinct buttery texture and rich taste.

Provoleta

Since we can never have too much cheese, we also ordered the traditional Argentine provoleta ($20), a provolone-type cheese that’s melted, bubbling and ready to be slathered on a slice of buttery rustic bread. I only wish it had been left under the broiler for a few more moments.

Our second appetizer was on the menu as “The Best Empanada in Town” ($18), so we were moved to try it. These classic doughy empanadas were stuffed with tender short rib, perfectly baked to a light crisp and served with a crunchy criolla sauce, or salsa made with peppers, onions and tomatoes.

Shrimp and crab ravioli

Similar to its neighbor, Uruguayan cuisine is imbued with heavy Italian and Spanish influence; it’s a region where meat and pasta rule. (Try the shrimp crab ravioli). So we ordered the pappardelle ($38) and the entraña ($39). If you like creamy mushroom sauces, order the former. It’s the best pasta on the menu—plus, it’s topped with black truffles. The entraña, or skirt steak, was perfectly cooked, tender, and served with an herbaceous chimichurri sauce that I could happily eat by the spoonful.

While there are many excellent dessert choices, it’s the gelati that shine. Sample a few flavors before taking your creamy choice back to your table. I’ll be coming back just for Ferrero Rocher’s flawless blend of chocolate and hazelnut.

IF YOU GO

5250 Town Center Circle, Boca Raton; 561/692-3933
PARKING: Valet, parking lot
HOURS: Sun.–Wed., 7:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Thurs.–Sat., 7:30 a.m.–10 p.m.
PRICES: $18–$58
WEBSITE: bocaraton.narbona.com

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