On Mother’s Day in 1964, La Ginestra restaurant opened its doors. It’s been owned and operated by the same family in the same location on Throckmorton Avenue in downtown Mill Valley for 60 years. Salvatore and Maria Aversa christened their new restaurant La Ginestra, Italian for “scotch broom,” which blooms robustly over the hills of Marin and reminded them of the home they had left in Italy with the same yellow-coated hills.
Many young people who grew up in Mill Valley remember La Ginestra as one of the first places they dined out with their families. Parents were made to feel welcome with their toddlers. Some of those same children have returned to repeat the experience with their own kids.
My friend and I parked in the lot to the right of the restaurant and walked into the bar area. There is also an entrance directly into the restaurant from the street.
The bar stools were mostly full and a couple of the tables were, too. Laura and I are both fans of Negronis ($15). We were in an Italian bar, so it seemed only appropriate for us to both order one. They were the classic style of one-third each of Campari, gin and sweet vermouth. Their slightly bitter flavors work well before or after dinner.
Food can be ordered in the bar area, too.
The bar area offers a comfortable space where those seated at the bar join in conversation and become acquaintances.
After finishing our drinks, we walked on through to the dining area and were seated at a booth toward the back, across from the kitchen area. I like sitting near the kitchen to check out the action.
Menu specials were tucked inside the main menu. As a neighborhood place, it’s wise of them to offer specials to keep the locals interested. Pinsa ($19) was listed as an appetizer. Pinsas, Roman-style pizzas, are showing up on many menus around the Bay Area. Their lighter, crispier style is intriguing. La Ginestra’s interpretation of the pinsa was different from others I’ve tasted — with no complaints from me. It was more like a dense, crispy flatbread. The oval crust was topped with artichoke puree, thinly sliced, house-made porchetta, a slow-cooked herb and garlic seasoned pork, and smoked mozzarella. The oval was cut into eight portions, each topped with a generous dollop of crescenza cheese. A bit of chopped fresh basil gave the finishing touch.
The full-flavored Orecchiette Pugliese ($22) — tossed with broccoli rabe, house-made Italian-style sausage and pecorino cheese — competed with several pastas on the menu, including a daily special ($24). We chose the Orecchiette since it stood out from some of the more familiar pastas, such as the Carbonara ($22), Spaghetti Bolognese ($22) and Spaghetti Vongole ($23). No doubt they would have been equally delicious. The pasta is the vehicle that delivers the sauce. The kitchen has a controlled approach to the sauces, so they share equal prominence with the pasta. And the pasta portion made it humanly possible to enjoy.
Gluten-free pasta is available for some of the pasta dishes.
La Ginestra offers an extensive and interesting wine list concentrating on Italian wines and listed by region or area, such as Sardinia, Campania and Sud Italia. Wines by the bottle run from $60 to $250. Several wines are offered by the glass, such as Verdicchio ($16 a glass, $59 a bottle) and Barbaresco ($22 a glass, $80 a bottle).
Veal is something not offered on many menus these days. I asked our waiter where they sourced their veal.
He said, “Let me ask my dad.”
His dad was Tino Alversa, the restaurant’s manager. After so many years of badly, cruelly raised veal, asking is a must. He said it was “raised free-range.”
Tino Alversa and his siblings, Lucia and Fabio, have spent years developing a good relationship with their food suppliers.
Many of the floor staff are family or practically so, like Tim, who has worked there for 30 years.
Laura ordered the Vitello Piccata ($29). Lightly floured and sautéed thin pieces of veal were in a pan sauce of white wine and capers, lightly mounted with butter. I was expecting more lemon tang in the sauce. Roasted potatoes in their jackets and a bundle of dark green, tender chard filled out the plate. All were tasty but not as flavorful as the pinsa or the pasta.
The potatoes and chard also accompanied the Scampi ($29). Six medium-large prawns were cooked in butter and olive oil and served with an Italian-style green sauce. It only takes a moment to overcook prawns and those prawns, unfortunately, were tough. There wasn’t much green sauce to cuddle the flavorless prawns.
The Pollo Milanese ($26) and the Pollo Marsala ($26) both read well on the menu. Next time I’ll order one of those or the fish of the day. Also, I want to order a pizza. I remember delicious La Ginestra pizzas from a time when not every other eating establishment had them on the menu.
All desserts are made in house, like the Cheesecake ($10), Cannoli ($8) and Tiramisu ($10). We chose the Tiramisu, the recipe of the late matriarch of the family, Maria Aversa, which she was making up until recently. Now her daughter, Lucia, and son, Tino, have adapted it for current tastes. Limoncello-scented and dusted with dark cocoa, the whipped mascarpone cream and ladyfinger dessert was a manageable size. You’ll enjoy it without regretting the richness.
This family-owned and -operated Italian restaurant has been serving the community for the past 60 years. The service provided by the family has stayed true to their goal of providing well-prepared and warmly served food in a comfortable environment for dinner or to celebrate a special occasion.
Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at [email protected].
La Ginestra
Address: 127 Throckmorton Ave., Mill Valley
Phone: 415-388-0224
Website: laginestramv.com
Cuisine: Italian
Noise level: Loud at times
Liquor selection: Full
Vegetarian dishes: Yes
Gluten-free selections: Yes
Parking: Lot, free after 6 p.m., street
Reservations: resy.com
Hours: 4:30 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays; closed Mondays and Tuesdays
Prices: $7 to $29
Summary: La Ginestra remains a welcoming neighborhood Italian restaurant.