Restaurant review: Long may this culture of hospitality and exuberance continue at The Academy


Chargrilled Mediterranean vegetables with tomatoes

Joris Minne

Today at 13:55

If you’re tired of eating in restaurants, you’re tired of life, Samuel Johnson almost said. The name itself means it is a restorative place, somewhere to reinvigorate your drooping spirit. People should make time for trip to a restaurant and go easy on the fast food outlets which are not usually invigorating.

Some of today’s chefs and restaurateurs, not many, but still too many, have gone past the original brief and are forgetting the simpler principles of hospitality. In a bid to repackage careers in the sector as the opposite of perceived servitude and humble subjugation, are they now coming out the other end of the argument convinced of their new found professionalism and creativity and now adopting the airs of musicians and artists, designers and lifestyle leaders? Their artistry and talents sometimes qualify them as such and doubtless they are encouraged to adopt this mantle by the likes of Michelin, awards schemes and, er, food critics.


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