To heat style or air dry your hair? That is the question


Everything you need to know about air drying your hair.

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A search of the term “air dry hair” on the social-media platform TikTok yields a robust selection of videos highlighting the hair trend.

“Social media has had a huge impact,” says Jonathan van Ness, a celebrity hairstylist and founder of the haircare brand JVN. “There’s so much more representation on social media where we can see ourselves in the people on our phones.”

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Rather than relying on media to dictate beauty trends, social-media users discover — and make viral — the latest and greatest techniques through everyday users and all-star influencers alike.

“Before we relied on TV and movies and even fashion magazines to establish beauty trends,” van Ness says. “But now I can scroll through TikTok after TikTok of people who have so many different hair types. And so many creators have such great info that now more people are learning how to rock their natural hair.”

Jonathan van Ness.
Jonathan van Ness. JVN

The air-dry hair movement, which sees people passing up their hot tools in favour of letting their hair dry naturally, is all about embracing a this-is-me approach to beauty.

“Proudly rocking an air dry style just feels so celebratory, effortlessly fabulous, and chic,” van Ness says.

Melissa Voje, a Metro Vancouver-based stylist says that online interest is translating into her chair with clients increasingly asking her about air-dry options.

“On average, I’d say I have half of my clients daily asking about air-drying methods, or products to assist in a better result after air drying,” Voje says. “People want more versatility with their hair instead of the traditional heat styling, especially with vacation styles.”

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Noting the idea of a low-maintenance styling option is a main motivator for many, she noted an increased awareness in scalp and hair health is also behind the boom.

“We are more aware of what excessive heat can do to our hair,” Voje says.

Van Ness says adding some air-dry styling days into the mix for fans of everyday heat styles such as blowouts and flat-iron curls can give hair a beneficial break from damaging high heat exposure.

“Dryers, curling irons and other heat styling tools can deliver up to 450 F degrees of concentrated heat directly to your hair every session, so going the air-dry route can help to cut down on the type of stress that heat exposure can produce over time,” van Ness says. “But even if you heat style all the time, as long as you’re using a heat protectant before heat styling, you’re good to go.”

While improperly prepped heat styling-caused concerns such as dryness, dullness and breakage can be lessened by opting for air drying, going a more au naturel route does still require some hair products.

“Look for a product that provides your hair lengths with moisture and possibly a bit of texture or hold,” Voje suggests. ”This will give you a beautiful result when trying heatless curls and no-heat styling methods. Finish off your style by adding a clear oil to relax any frizz.”

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Van Ness notes that when you apply the product during the air-dry process is also an important point of consideration.

“Adding your products to your hair when it’s very wet will ensure they go on more evenly,” van Ness says. “My hair is curly, so I like to listen for a squelching sound when I’m scrunching product into my hair — that’s how I know my hair is wet enough. If you don’t hear that squelch, grab a spray bottle and add some water.

“You also want to make sure that you’re adding enough for your hair length and type — if you have finer hair then start with less, but don’t be afraid to get in there with a lot more if your hair is very dense or prone to more frizz than curl pattern. You want to make sure that you’re adding enough product for it to define your texture as it dries.”

A big fan of air drying, it comes as no surprise the hair pro and TV personality created a product in the JVN collection specifically for those who prefer to nix the need for heat in their daily hair routine.

“Air Dry Cream ($38 at Sephora) is my absolute favourite product for air-dry styling, and I know that’s going to sound biased, but it’s just the truth,” van Ness says. “It’s formulated with chia and linseed extract, which helps to bring out your best curl pattern with its hold and shine. It defines your strands while also helping control frizz, which can be tough to manage when you’re air drying.”

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JVN Complete Hydrating Air Dry Hair Styling Cream.
JVN Complete Hydrating Air Dry Hair Styling Cream. Photo by Sephora

But it’s not all good when it comes to air drying. There are some things to definitely avoid.

“It’s so tempting to just shower and go to bed with wet hair, but if there’s one thing we shouldn’t do on our air dry styling journey, it’s that,” van Ness says. “When we sleep on wet hair, we risk breakage and even bacterial or fungal growth on our scalp. It’s always better to air dry earlier in the day when your hair isn’t all scrunched up below our head during sleep, so it’s more likely to dry quicker and more evenly.

“If it’s very rarely then it’s OK. It just shouldn’t be the norm.”

Air drying also isn’t the best option for people who have hair extensions, Voje points out.

“People who wear their hair naturally can definitely embrace air dried and heatless methods,” she says. “However, those with extensions need to use heat to at least make sure that their extension attachments are dry, then they can go in with heatless styles for the lengths.”

How about heatless curls? Here’s how to get it right

By now, you’ve likely seen the viral videos of people rolling their hair into an assortment of retro rollers, pin curls and poofy rods, only to reveal the silkiest, bounciest curls you’ve ever seen a short jump-cut later.

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With heatless curl options clearly trending, we asked Voje about the options. Are they really good — or a really good online hack that falls flat in real life?

“I’m obsessed!” Voje says of the heatless curling trend. “There are so many on rotation right now, it would be impossible to find one that doesn’t work for you.”

Pointing to heatless styling rods as her personal pick, Voje says the tools can be very user-friendly.

“I find people have the most success with them,” Voje explains.

Kitsch Satin Heatless Curling Set.
Kitsch Satin Heatless Curling Set, $21.99 on Amazon.ca. Photo by Amazon.ca

But, again, even though seemingly straightforward, a few styling products and steps are still essential to get the curls of your dreams.

“I suggest, applying your favourite hair products that provide moisture and hold, then roll the hair,” Voje says. “Finish in the morning with a clear oil — and you should be good to go.”

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