Many of the brands celebrated in the retrospective have struggled in recent years, including Christopher Kane, House of Holland and Roksanda. “I don’t think we’ve quite recovered from the impact of those changes [Brexit and Covid],” says Newgen rising star Tolu Coker, adding that funding is a particular challenge for young designers today. “The visibility that comes with being part of Newgen is amazing, but when it comes to a physical, tangible resource like being financed, it’s really difficult.” Coker says that while “it’s a scary climate”, she’s also “hopeful”.
“It’s been a tough year for London, and so, in this moment, I feel very grateful,” says Steven Stokey-Daley, founder of SS Daley, after collecting the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design on Thursday, just before LFW commenced.
The LFW retrospective charted a number of difficult times that have impacted London’s designer landscape — the aftermath of the ’80s recession, 9/11 and the 2008 crash, among them. In her speech at the private viewing of the retrospective, Mower says it’s in these moments of adversity that innovation is born, while a 1993 quote by journalist Kathryn Samuel sits on the wall: “The designers have proven that the British give their best when their backs are against the wall.”
Today’s backdrop — with Brexit, rising costs post-Covid and wholesale disruption — is no exception. “The energy at LFW this season has been electric,” says Caroline Rush, CEO of the BFC. “There is an unwavering optimism across the industry, even in the face of current economic challenges.”
London was back in full swing
Indeed, designers and show-goers noted a vibrant energy at London Fashion Week this season, as creativity and multiculturalism continued to be at the forefront of what the city has to offer. The schedule featured 72 designers, 48 runway shows, 17 presentations and 63 additional events.
“We saw designers take it to the next level of brand diversification and scaling up,” says Naomi Smart, commerce director of Vogue Shopping at British Vogue. She highlights SS Daley’s womenswear debut (the day after his award win), Nensi Dojaka’s collaboration with Calvin Klein and Michael Stewart’s first standalone show for Standing Ground. “Those that really drilled down into their design codes had maximum impact. Chopova Lowena, Aaron Esh, Simone Rocha and Tolu Coker not only presented clothes we’re desperate to buy, we also want to be part of their gangs. Their shows were bursting with community spirit and the energy that comes with an authentic vision — which not only listens to their audience’s desires, but delivers on it.”