Italy is renowned for its manufacturing capabilities and vibrant fashion community, with the sector driving 5% of the country’s GDP, according to the Mayor of Milan, Giuseppe Sala, who, together with president of the Italian Fashion Chamber Carlo Capasa, praised the region’s commitment to craft and sustainability at a press conference ahead of Milan Fashion Week. It was no surprise, then, that during the first days of MFW, brands both expat and homegrown, were eager to showcase their savoir faire credentials and highlight their craft-focused heritage.
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The week of shows kicked off with a celebratory collection from Fendi, marking its centenary milestone next year. For SS25, artistic director Kim Jones went back to the 1920s, which laid the ‘foundations of how women dress today, and in many ways, how we think,’ he said. ‘It’s about modernity in style and attitude.’
Jones infused the brand’s couture DNA into the world of its ready-to-wear, with carefully crafted embellishments on delicate silk and organza pieces. The collection as a whole was a meeting of the modern and the antique: Art Deco on flapper dresses paired with Red Wing boots, shown alongside croc-effect leather dresses and knitted hot pants styled under relaxed overcoats.
At Marni, Francesco Risso, too, wanted to emphasise the craft and the spirit of design. ‘Beauty is a white rabbit scampering across your yard. You chase it. Though you fall short in capturing it, in the mad rush you find yourself somewhere wondrous,’ read the show notes. It was an apt description: the show was like falling down the rabbit hole into an eccentric dream world — let’s call it Risso’s wonderland.
The surrealist collection was as impactful as it was characterful; cotton, leather and suede were Risso’s fabrics of choice, crafted into full-skirted dresses and exaggerated tailoring and topped off with bright rose motifs, giant-brimmed hats, and larger-than-life scarves made from fabric scraps.
On Wednesday, German label Boss drew on its tailoring roots to craft a collection that showcased relaxed suiting to designed to wear everywhere but the workplace. The show, titled ‘Out of Office’, leveraged lighter fabrics and slouchier silouettes, with blazers styled over hoodies and unbuttoned shirts. Marco Falcioni, senior vice president of creative direction, described it as ‘a softer approach’ compared to seasons past, ‘where the silhouette is dictated by the wearer’s body, leaving more room for freedom and expression of individuality.’
Wednesday’s lineup closed out with Etro, which fused Bohemian vibrancy with Mediterranean spirit. The cheerful collection saw fishnet tops paired with flirty paisley printed silk skirts; beaded denim thrown over flowing chiffon pieces; and, in a tribute to Italian craftsmanship, dresses with intricate sequin embellishments and sensual yet light-hearted sheer detailing.
Craft may be a serious business, but in a fashion context, the result is often a whole lot of fun.
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