The tacos at Mister Oso are a little different.
Street-style tacos are the restaurant’s centerpiece, and the main fillings, including proteins and the cauliflower option, are smoked.
Also, the popular Mexican staples arrive unassembled, with mounds of beef birria, mojo pork, cauliflower pastor, chicken or shrimp complemented with all the accoutrements to build three hefty tacos.
“We wanted something more family style, rustic, playful,” says chef Blake Edmunds. “The idea is to build your own adventure.”
Edmunds is the restaurant’s opening chef from the Denver-based Culinary Creative Group (CCG). Edmunds, who admits to missing the Colorado mountains in a city set below sea level, is a longtime friend of local co-owner Billy Blatty, a new partner in CCG. The chef has been in town for months to launch Mister Oso, a concept mirroring the original in the Mile-High city.
Blatty is the founder and owner of Sofia, Barcadia, Ohm Lounge and Nagomi. Mister Oso took over the Barcadia space at 601 Tchoupitoulas St. as Blatty merged his hospitality company with CCG, which has a portfolio of restaurants in Denver.
Mister Oso was conceived as a casual spin-off of Senor Bear, the company’s more formal Mexican dining concept. In Denver, the restaurant was recognized by Michelin with a Bib Gourmand, the guide’s “value-for-money” award.
Edmunds will travel back and forth as chef Chet Henderson takes over the kitchen here. Henderson, a corporate executive chef for CGG, has spent time in New Orleans working at Sofia. He wanted to move his family back, so heading the Mister Oso kitchen was a great fit.
An electric gas-assisted smoker is central in the kitchen, designed to spark the oak that lends earthy nuance to the meats’ char. Sometimes elements like a marinade get the treatment. So does the hearty stacked Mexican pizza, a layered tostada with seasoned ground meat and the tang of grated French Mimolette cheese, which is more complex than the usual cheddar.
Edmunds adds complexity to familiar flavors, including items like guacamole. His version is informed by sikil pak, a spread usually made with ground pumpkin seeds along with tomato puree, chilies, herbs and onion. At Mister Oso, pumpkin seeds are swapped out for pistachios and sesame seeds, imbuing a nutty texture and flavor to the avocado dip.
Coconut rice is prepared with Spanish bomba rice, typically used for paella.
“We cook it with an egregious amount of coconut milk and butter,” Edmunds says. “Then we get a cast iron skillet ripping hot and caramelize the rice, which is topped with a Peruvian style salsa criolla.”
Along with smoked meat taco platters, Mister Oso’s menu includes ceviche and salads. For drinks, there are a variety of cocktails, such as margaritas and Palomas, as well as agua frescas.
The 140-seat Mister Oso includes a patio space with retractable glass and colorful, Latin-themed tropical decor and a club vibe. The happy hour has drink specials and a menu of snacks, including nachos and Frito pies.
Yia Vang told us about learning to cook, Hmong dishes and the menu at his Mister Mao dinner.
This is the first of several local restaurants forthcoming from the group. A5 will be a Japanese-inspired steakhouse, set to open in early 2024, and Bohemia will be an outdoor “culinary park” on Freret Street.
Blatty says he is excited to be part of a larger, hospitality enterprise. “I was drawn to their infrastructure, leadership and creativity,” he says. “They have a broader spectrum of talent than we do.”
Blatty randomly met CCG founder Juan Padro and was immediately impressed with his vision. Padro’s restaurant Bar Dough was the inspiration for Sofia. Although the pandemic put the brakes on merger plans, the collaboration is finally in place.
“Our friendship developed the New Orleans way,” Blatty says. “Over multiple meals and conversations and more than a few Saints games.”
There are a host of culinary events in New Orleans in early November and beyond.