Johanna Parv partnered with skin-tech brand Face Gym for her pre-show prep, and sent models down the runway with sculpted jawlines and dewy complexions, complementing her performancewear-inspired collection. Analytics and strategy firm Seen Works dubbed this look “Pilates face” in its London Fashion Week insights report, stating that athleticism as an aesthetic is still prevalent in upcoming beauty trends, following a sports-filled summer. “Sweat and muscle toning are now a beauty asset as consumers want to look like they just left a Pilates class — even if they haven’t stepped foot in one,” the report states.

A similar aesthetic played out at Dior. “I wanted to create the makeup look of an active and dynamic woman, on the move, who has just completed some physical activity. Her skin is bright and dewy, and her gaze is intense,” wrote Peter Philips, creative and image director for Dior makeup, in the show notes.

Debuts and returns

While mainstays like Mac Cosmetics, Pat McGrath Labs and Charlotte Tilbury continue to dominate backstage beauty, this season a few other names broke through — and used fashion month as a clever marketing play.

Makeup artist and founder Patrick Ta brought his own brand to fashion month for the first time, creating radiant and minimal makeup looks at Monse. Ta used the opportunity to spotlight some of his most recent launches, specifically the brand’s foundation; demonstrating the range of shades and creating product tutorials and behind-the-scenes content to share with the Patrick Ta community across Instagram and TikTok.

YSE Beauty, founded in April 2023 by model Molly Sims, debuted at the Simkhai New York show, teasing its Like A Gloss balm and kick-starting its marketing campaign via maximising the additional runway engagement.

Refy made its Paris Fashion Week debut, collaborating with Australian designer Christopher Esber. Models wore the brand’s new Lip Blur, a liner-lipstick hybrid, delivering a soft-focus look inspired by the “clouds” that aligned with Esber’s vision.

Revlon made a triumphant return following a 10-year hiatus sponsoring Christian Siriano’s NYFW show. After the designer made a viral social media plea for makeup artists, Revlon stepped in while capitalising on the moment to showcase its Super Lustrous Glass Shine Lipstick ahead of a November relaunch. The collaboration boosted visibility for both Siriano and Revlon, which is well-timed considering the latter’s refresh after emerging from Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2023.