When there’s a dark coat, a pale-ish face, black tip to toe and an austere, angelic beauty to an ensemble, it’s got its roots in Goth culture. It’s not about depression, it’s not an outward projection of anxiety either. Instead it’s quiet rebellion that has its roots in the post-punk aggression of loudness. 

And fashion wise, the Goth look hasn’t died. It’s just been at ease. But thanks to director Tim Burton and the Netflix Wednesday series, new releases by The Cure and Bauhaus’ Peter Murphy, the culture of dusk is back, adapted to modern sensibility. 

A vehicle of self-expression

Doctor J, founder of locally distributed brand Punk Rave, said that gothic style is more than a niche but rather a vehicle of self-expression. “This isn’t just about clothes,” they explained. “It’s about creating a look that feels true to a personality. Gothic fashion has always had that independent streak.” And they said, there is a bit of a shift from traditional gothic attire. Think long, buttoned-up dresses and heavy, dark fabrics, now making way for a more contemporary aesthetic that reflects a broader evolution in how people engage with fashion. “It’s not what it used to be,” Doctor J said. “Now, it’s about incorporating elements of gothic darkness with more modern cuts and designs. You still see the drama, but it’s mixed with practicality. It’s revealing and bold, but it retains a sense of elegance.”

Today, they said, Goth clobber caters to a wide variety of styles, from dramatic coats and long dresses to lightweight mini-and sleeveless tops. “We’ve designed pieces that suit different climates and occasions,” Doctor J explained. “In Europe, these looks are part of daily life, you see people wearing them on the streets, not just at events or clubs. That’s what makes it so versatile.” 

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They said that in South Africa the market for gothic fashion is still growing. “Cape Town has shown a stronger interest than Johannesburg for now,” Doctor J noted. “The culture there is more aligned with alternative styles, but even so, it remains a niche market. What’s encouraging is how customers are engaging with the clothes. We’ve seen people purchase multiple items in a single transaction; pieces that work together but also stand on their own. It shows they’re buying with intention, not just for one-off occasions.” 

The slow return of Goth

It is slowly becoming more popular. Doctor J sees this renewed interest in gothic fashion as part of a larger cultural movement. “Globally, there’s a focus on individuality and authenticity,” they shared. “People are moving away from mass trends and towards something more personal. Gothic fashion captures that—it’s not about following a crowd; it’s about expressing who you are.” This resurgence isn’t about revisiting the past but adapting its spirit for the present, they said. For some, it’s about standing out; for others, it’s about finding something that feels right for them. That’s the beauty of it.”

Interestingly, they also noted that some of Punk Rave’s South African customers aren’t buying for local use at all. “Many are shopping for trips abroad,” Doctor J said. “They’re looking for something that fits into a European or international context, where gothic style is more mainstream, It’s all about a shared aesthetic and attitude.”

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