A unique trove of rare fashion and ephemera from seminal Belgian designer Martin Margiela and his eponymous house, Maison Martin Margiela, will go on sale next January in Paris – the majority of which has for years has lain dormant in the collection of Angela and Elena Picozzi, the daughters of Graziella Picozzi, for decades. Comprising over 270 pieces, the vast collection makes it the biggest-ever auction of Martin Margiela’s work.
Italian Graziella Picozzi, who worked alongside her husband Marco Picozzi, founded the brand Deni Cler in the 1970s, where a young Martin Margiela would consult before his stint at Jean Paul Gaultier and the later establishment of his eponymous maison. Striking up a friendship, Graziella would support Martin Margiela throughout his career, and collaborated on many of the garments which appear in the auction. The pieces that will go up for sale span 1988 to 1994, which the organisers have titled ‘The Early Years’ (Martin Margiela left his eponymous label in 2009; he would be succeeded by John Galliano in 2014, who last week exited the house after a decade).
‘Martin Margiela: The Early Years, 1988-94’ auction
Ring binder containing hand-embellished facsimile sketches, A/W 1989-90
(Image credit: Courtesy © George Mavrikos)
The auction is organised by Angela and Elena Picozzi alongside legendary London auction house Kerry Taylor Auctions, which specialises in fashion, and Paris’ Maurice Auctions. Many of the pieces have never been worn; others are in their original packaging – a true rarity when it comes to such auctions of vintage fashion. Alongside the clothing is a curiosity shop of ephemera, including old pattern pieces, sketches, and research folders. The sisters say they hope the auction – which includes pieces from some of his most influential collections – will allow a wider audience to appreciate Martin Margiela’s work.
‘The meeting between our mother, Graziella, and Martin Margiela was a fundamental moment for both of them. We always considered these items an important part of fashion history that ought to be protected,’ they say. ‘Over time, we realised how important it is that Martin’s talent and vision be enhanced, studied, told, and, why not, worn. And that’s why we are selling today.’
Teal knitted wool sweater, A/W 1990-91 Maison Martin Margiela
(Image credit: Courtesy © George Mavrikos)
Martin Margiela was a true fashion renegade, working in anonymity to create collections that redefined what clothing could be through deconstruction – the act of taking a garment apart and rebuilding it – or through the use of found objects. Alongside a stint as creative director for Hermès, he would prove incredibly influential, with his subversive approach much referenced, while numerous contemporary designers – including Matthieu Blazy and Demna – have passed through the Margiela studios.
Taking place on January 27 in Paris, the sale will be preceded by an exhibition of sorts, allowing the public to view these rare objects before they go on sale at 81 Boulevard Voltaire.
‘Martin Margiela: The Early Years, 1988-94’ auction will take place on January 27, 2025 at 81 Boulevard Voltaire, Paris 75011 and broadcast live on drouot.com and invaluable.com
The public can view the auction from 25 – 26 January 2025, at 81 Boulevard Voltaire.
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