In the vibrant world of fashion, every stitch tells a story and every hue paints a narrative. Illustrator David Lee Csicsko embarks on a vivid journey through the tapestry of fashion history in “Fashion Icons,” the fourth in his People Series, published by Trope Editions. Drawing from a rich palette of stories and styles, Csicsko brings to life the mavericks of the fashion world, each with their unique tale and signature style. From the avant-garde creations of Elsa Schiaparelli to the contemporary pulse of Marc Jacobs, he navigates the diverse landscape with a cohesive yet distinctive illustrative style, paying homage to the grandeur of fashion’s trailblazers.

In a conversation with Newcity, Csicsko shares the behind-the-scenes process of crafting visual narratives that resonate with the spirit of each designer, revealing “Eureka!” moments and the deep connections forged with the icons. As he unveils the inspirations, challenges and the delightful discoveries made while illustrating a world rich with color, texture and individuality, he provides insights into his book that seeks to inspire the next generation of designers to carve out their path with zest and zeal, echoing the daring spirit of the icons who shaped the fashion world.

Your work in “Fashion Icons” draws inspiration from the stories within the book. Was there a specific designer’s story or style that deeply resonated with you or posed a challenge? Specifically, can you share any intriguing moments you experienced while capturing avant-garde or unconventional designs, such as Elsa Schiaparelli’s shoe hat?

I’ve always felt a connection to Elsa Schiaparelli. She worked with so many artists, notably with Salvador Dali—they collaborated on the Lobster Dress, the Shoe Hat and lots of surrealist jewelry. She was a wonder and had so many challenges, yet she did “her thing her way.” I love doing visual research, as well as historical research. Finding out that there was a version of the Shoe Hat in color, was that 
“eureka” moment. The hat is so crazy-cool and sassy chic. Elsa Schiaparelli just had to be on the cover. Each image tries to celebrate and visually tell the story of each designer. So many of the designers were mavericks in their era. I worked hard to create a representation that informs the reader of the world they came from.

Given the immense diversity among the designers covered in “Fashion Icons,” how did you approach capturing the essence of each one while maintaining a cohesive style?

I studied endless photos of each designer and looked at the clothing they created. From there, I selected colors that one could identify as that designer’s color palette. For instance, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto are all about shades of gray and black. Franco Moschino’s clothing is so witty and cheeky and quintessentially Italian. Drawing him was a blast—and an honor. Then you have Marc Jacobs who has the endurance in fashion of a marathon runner; he’s always on the pulse of what’s cool for right now. The African American designer Stephen Burrows came from salsa dancing and the world of funky disco. My stylized illustrated portrait conveys that period. I also felt a freeness to take liberties with what could be a portrait, so I pushed the abstract shapes, yet kept it friendly and fashionable. Throughout the book there is a decorative element of a dotted line. To me, this added a touch of finesse and tailoring. If you look closely, you’ll see it on every page.

Were there any discoveries or insights you gained about the world of fashion and its evolution as you worked on the illustrations for this book?

Well, not surprisingly, most male designers are gay. What was surprising was that so many of them learned sewing from their grandmothers. Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries van Noten, Marc Jacobs and Nicolas Ghesquière all had strong grandmothers who helped shape their vision.

As a team, with Gillion Carrara as the writer and Ikram Goldman as the author of the foreword and an adviser on the project, we wanted to complete a great collection of information and be a swell book.

Since “Fashion Icons” covers fifty designers who have influenced multiple eras and styles, how did you decide on the color palette or visual motifs to ensure consistency and yet reflect the diversity and richness of the fashion world?

The book begins with Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, then on to mister mod Pierre Cardin, the wild child Alexander McQueen, the thoughtful Virgil Abloh, and ends with fashion activist Kerby Jean-Raymond. Each of these designers represent their time period, and all of the color choices celebrate that.

A book like this hopes to inspire young people to design and have fun wearing clothes. All the designers in the book took risks, delivered over-the-top fashion shows, and created dramatic and beautiful clothes. It was a goal to deliver that zest in “Fashion Icons,” and I hope we achieved it.

“Fashion Icons”
Written by Gillion Carrara and illustrated by David Lee Csicsko
Trope, 112 pages