Harriet Westmoreland gives extraordinarily good manicures. The York-based nail artist who reinvented the French manicure (we have her to thank for the skinny tip) is the resident manicurist at Claridge’s Spa where she charges £600 a pop, a pretty penny even by 5-star hotel standards.
I’ve long wondered what sets Westmoreland apart, and – after putting my hands in hers – I now know: it’s restraint. Despite her triple-A-list client roster (the actress Zendaya is one) she doesn’t do over-the-top, nor will she apply nail extensions (too damaging). Westmoreland’s wheelhouse is healthy, wealthy-looking nails, and she’s a ninja at it.
A reluctant nail biter, I’ve been relying upon nail extensions for a quick thrill, not fully acknowledging that they’ve been nothing more than a toxic fix, making my naturally frail nails weak and indefensible. If I am ever to achieve the dainty, pulled-together look I long for, then I need a long-term nail health strategy, beginning with Westmoreland’s signature scrub, file and paper-thin gel manicure.
In light of recent scrutiny over the safety of gel polish, Westmoreland applies The Gel Bottle’s BiAB (Builder in a bottle) Hema-free builder gel in Tulle, £18.50, as a strengthening base, which she says will help prevent breakage and encourage my nails to grow stronger and longer.
Hema (hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is an ingredient in gel polish that helps with the curing process. While it’s not been scientifically proven that Hema is bad for nails long term, it can be an allergen, BIAB claims, therefore it carries a small sensitivity risk.
Once a coat of strengthening builder gel is on, I opt for autumn’s shade du jour, cherry mocha – a rich autumnal berry hue that elevates everyone’s skin tone, no matter your age.
Whether you prefer professional manicures or do your nails yourself at home, Westmoreland says it’s the healthy habits you regularly adhere to that will make the most difference to achieving great nails.
Seven best habits for stronger, healthier nails
1. Use a nail brush daily
“A nail brush is the best tool you can use at home to keep your cuticles looking fresh and tidy,” says Westmoreland. Agreed. Having recently invested in a two-sided wooden nail brush that I keep by my hand soap, its uses exceed keeping nails clean.
Use the bristles to brush sidewise across your cuticles with warm water and a hand wash with natural polishing beads such as Aesop’s Reverence Aromatique, £31. This will gently exfoliate surface grime from the nail bed and remove dry cuticle skin for squeaky clean, smooth nails. Then go underneath the nails themselves to remove unsightly dirt, particularly if you favour neutral shades.
2. Leave cuticle trimming to a professional
The old adage of “never let anyone cut your cuticles” is true if a healthy cuticle is savagely removed, but gingerly snipping off dry hangnails makes all the difference when performed by someone who knows how. Westmoreland insists that this be left to a professional.
3. Find a shape that suits you, not the trends
If you’ve got wide, short nail beds (the length of the nails when cut short), then go for an oval or pointy nail shape that gives the illusion of longer, slimmer nails and fingers. Long nail beds look good with any shape, though square and short is elegant in this instance. Thin, short nails suit a dainty almond or mountain peak shape. When filing yourself, use a glass nail file or emery board and move it gently in one direction.
4. Cuticle oil isn’t all that – unless you do this
Every nail professional I’ve met says that regular nail oiling is the secret to stronger, healthier nails as it keeps the nail beds flexible, thus less prone to brittleness. And yet, I’ve never found this moves the needle, even when I’ve been diligent.
Westmoreland agrees. Unless, she says, you apply an oil with a clean mascara spoolie brush, £2.99 (available for peanuts on Amazon), which will encourage the oil to permeate the nails and cuticles properly while providing extra exfoliation – a must in winter.
5. Treat hands to the same skincare as your face
Hands are the one area of your body that’s exposed to sun damage – and consequently ageing – more than any other. Therefore whatever skincare you use on your face – ideally a serum, cream and facial scrub – should be applied all the way to your elbows. Hand creams are great for care on the go, but for sparkly hands you must go the extra mile – Westmoreland tells me she likes to use Augustinus Bader’s The Rich Cream, £225.
6. Eat a collagen rich diet
Collagen is the body’s main protein and is responsible not only for firm skin and well-oiled joints, but also for strong nails. Bone broth is packed with it, but taking a supplement can be just as effective. Marine collagen is the most proven in scientific studies to work, performing better than bovine-derived products; try Ingenious collagen capsules, £110, taken first thing in the morning on an empty stomach. You’ll need a month of consistent use before you notice a difference.
7. The best shades for younger and prettier nails are…
Think of nail colours like lipstick, says Westmoreland; they take a bit of trial and error, but you’ll know if a hue is right for you when it makes the skin on your hands sing. If it drains the colour from the skin on your hands, then move on. As a general rule, warmer skin tones suit nudes with a rosy undertone, like BIAB’s Hema-free Builder Gel polish in tulle, £22.20; cooler skin tones look good in pinky-nudes.
The same goes for reds, which Westmoreland considers a classic look, veering from pillarbox to deep berries and bright, orangey tones. I’m wearing French Kiss from The Gel Bottle’s Glamourati collection, £17.40: a rich, wintery cherry mocha shade. But if you prefer a classic non-gel polish, then Essie’s Swing Velvet, £4.50, is equally flattering.
Six of the best hand and nail products
Clockwise from left: Mirror Water BUFF Body Exfoliator, 200ml, £47; Geoffrey Fisher Nail Brush, £20; Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream, from £70; Manicurist Paris 100/180 emery board for natural nails, £2
From left: Hema-free BIAB Builder Gel, £22.20; The Gel Bottle, French Kiss £17.40