ILLUSTRATION BY ALEX GREEN

It’s a pain in the neck, becoming the best restaurant in London. There you are, quietly going about your business, and suddenly a whole bunch of new customers are swanning in asking unhelpful questions such as “Why don’t you have any loos in this establishment?” and “Why am I paying to sit outside in a rainy wind tunnel?”

This is what happened to Chishuru. What was meant to be a three-month pop-up at Brixton Market was so successful it became a permanent fixture. Then, in 2022, Time Out named it London’s best restaurant. So now it has moved northwards to Great Titchfield Street in pursuit of a venue worthy of the food. And indoor plumbing.

This type of accolade can be a blessing or a