By its name one might think that the menu at Sagaponack (an affluent town in the Hamptons) might be serving up swordfish, softshell crabs and shad roe from the choppy waters off Montauk. But since Kyungil Lee took over, he has focused the menu on Asian-Mediterranean cuisine via Executive Chef Phil Choy, formerly at Daniel Boulud’s Boulud Sud. The results are stunning.

Located in New York’s Flatiron District, the two-story premises don’t much look like a seafood restaurant on Long Island, aside from sea-shelled glass storefront, blue and white colors. The front room and bar are very loud, so ask for a table to the rear of the adjoining dining room.

There’s a whole section devoted to oysters, and while I happen to be allergic to the bivalve, I must report the reactions of two oyster-lovers at my table who pronounced an array of dressed oysters—with Fresno and serrano chilies and shallots; cucumber, yuzu, trout roe and dill; and Italian caviar, buttermilk and yogurt; all three cost $23—very much out of the ordinary. They are also served roasted, with four varieties at $21.

All the dishes are quite beautiful and bright with color (Lee should turn up the lighting on the tables to see it), including a pristine fluke topped with coconut, Marcona almonds and tobiko, dressed with a sauce of cucumber, cilantro oil, chili oil and lime ($22). Richly flavorful salmon crudo comes with yuzu, sesame and the tang of orange and bite of serrano chile ($22). The ubiquitous appearance of Brussels sprouts is here, too, sweetened with maple syrup, soy, apple and sesame seeds ($14. One of my favorite items is an ample portion of gambas al ajillo of plump, garlic-drenched shrimp with pimento and preserved lemon to add some real bite ($17).

The larger plates are just as savory, especially the ‘nduja mussels, a big bowl of them with pork sausage, guajillo and the hot, spicy Calabrian condiment ($23). Nice, fat, perfectly cooked sea scallops come with polenta, maitake mushrooms and a chicken jus ($34), while Shoyu salmon is sided with jeweled rice, rich brown butter and mushrooms ($32). Ricotta cavatelli took well to the subtlety of peekytoe crab with sunchokes and a dash of lemon to provide an acid balance ($14). A $14 supplement of caviar would compromised those flavors.

I didn’t have the chance to try it, but Sagaponack serves paella with chorizo, saffron clams, mussels, shrimp and squid ($35 per person).

There are only two desserts, and the one to order is the luscious Thai milk cake scented with cinnamon, ripe mango and a pecan crumble ($17). Crème brûleé with strawberry, Earl Grey tea and mint ($15) was a bit overwrought, and its caramelized crust tasted of being scorched with butane.

In retrospect there is a lot more Mediterranean influence on the menu than Asian, but Choy’s background serves him well in that regard and means that his creations are not quite like anyone else’s. Seasonings and spices, hot and sweet, coalesce with first-rate main ingredients to make his food very special. If you don’t go to Sagaponack expecting chowder and baskets of fried shrimp, you’ll be delightfully surprised. Then again, if Choy took a crack at those items, he’d more than likely make them with his own flair.

SAGAPONACK

4 West 22^nd Street

212-229-2226

Open for lunch & dinner Mon.-Sat.