Restaurant review: Lunch at Derry spot is a sequence of comforting displays of love and affection for local produce


Browns, Bond’s Hill, Derry City

Greencastle scallops

Joris Minne

Today at 13:00

Views can make a poor restaurant popular. You sit in a prominent place by the picture windows overlooking the sea, the city, the mountains or whatever, admiring the dominions before you in the comfort of a warm dining room, and pay less attention than usual to what’s being brought to you to eat.

Views are the best distraction. They tap into the mind set of Londonderry’s 18th century Earl Bishop, Frederick the 4th Earl of Bristol (the cream of sherry ones) who declared across the front door of his newly built library, Mussenden Temple: “Tis pleasant, safely to behold from the shore the troubled sailor and hear the tempests roar.”


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