Much like your favourite novel ending, or all of the loose threads finally tied in a neat bow at the end of an excellent series, there is a sense of sadness when one of your favourite restaurant shuts its doors.
It’s even sadder when you walk past where it once was and all that sits in its wake is a demolition site.
Luckily for fellow lovers of Canteen Pizza, it has risen from the ashes, albeit in a different ‘burb, this time in Applecross.
The new digs are a breath of fresh air. What it lacks in ocean views it makes up for in stylish interiors of mixed materials, comfy booth seating and plenty of room outdoors to soak up a summer sunset. However, our outdoor roadside table needed a touch more light to see our feast once the sun had gone down.
Its menu has been upgraded (ciao to my favourite Brussels sprouts) and they’ve added a brekkie service too (pizzetta for brunch, yes please!).
There are of course a wealth of Neapolitan-style woodfired pizzas on offer as well as antipasti, pesce (seafood dishes such as Shark Bay tiger prawns and a Rottnest swordfish schnitzel) and sides.
We went for pizzas (the parmigiana $25 and capricciosa $27) as well as the porchetta for two ($32) and potatoes, ($14), asparagus ($14) and black lentils ($18).
It was a delight to try their excellent pizza again. The parmigiana was a tasty vego number of fried eggplant and basil, while the more classic capricciosa featured leg ham, artichoke, mushroom and kalamata olives.
The porchetta, tender southern cross pork loin with deliciously crunchy bits, served with charred sprouts and anchovy nduja sauce, was gobbled up very quickly.
The sides were good but didn’t have the wow factor of those of the past. Perhaps I’m just missing the heirloom tomato salad and pork and polpette of old.
The overall experience was solid. There were a few teething problems throughout the night (a forgotten beverage here and there) but for a spot that just opened its doors, it is a very welcomed addition back to the Perth food scene.
Canteen Pizza
32 Ardross St, Applecross
OPEN
Mon-Sun, 7am to late
BOOKINGS
Yes
CONTACT
canteen.pizza
THE VERDICT
A welcomed addition back to the Perth dining scene. With stunning interiors, it’s going to be popular over summer.
15/20