Our dining experience at The Carter Payne, formerly a church, had its share of transgressions; nonetheless, its saving grace was the food.
Originally an AME place of worship built in 1897, it was transformed into a tasting room for Local Relic Brewery in 2016. The building now also houses a restaurant overseen by chef Brent Beavers.
History aside, the one-time sanctuary is a popular gathering spot thanks to the wine, beer and cocktail/mocktail bars. The dinner and brunch menus are another temptation.
We were greeted by a young woman who explained drink orders are placed at the bar, while food is ordered at the table.
The Carter Payne (Located at: 320 S Weber St.) “Mac and Cheese” Wednesday January 10, 2024. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
Sharables, aka appetizers, are available beginning at 3 p.m., and dinner service begins at 5 p.m. We started with chipotle mac and cheese ($13), which would easily work as an entree. This is basic macaroni, as in the elbow variety, not one of the trendy shapes often found elsewhere. The velvety sauce is rich, made with beer cheese and offering a surprisingly subtle kick from the smoky, dried jalapeno peppers. The dish was topped with sliced green onions and toasted almonds.
The friendly greeter was also our server, who checked to ensure we liked the mac and to take our entree orders. We selected chicken Marsala ($23)CQ and Baharat pork tenderloin ($25). Then she ghosted us. Although she walked past our table numerous times en route to other diners, she never checked in with us again; nor did she offer an explanation for the long lag time between appetizer and entrees.
Our food arrived via a different person. Soon after, he confirmed all was well after we’d taken a few bites of our main courses, but I’ll come back to this.
The chicken breast had been pounded thin to ensure tenderness and almost swam in the Marsala-based gravy amid a variety of locally sourced Microvora mushrooms. This was served with flatbread and Lyonnaise potatoes, which fell short of what they should be. Rather than being crispy and creamy, they were simply toothy as if they weren’t completely cooked. The bread was nice for soaking up the dry sweet wine sauce.
Mixed berries and cream profiteri at The Carter Payne.
What evolved was an enjoyable conversation with the chef and a replacement of mashed potatoes Lyonnaise, although a little late. These spuds were worth the wait. Beavers explained what had gone wrong with the original version, but said he was pleased with the substitute — as well he should have been. It would have been nice to have those at the onset.
There were no problems with the pork. Baharat is a Middle Eastern spice blend, which coated the tenderloin resulting in an earthy, slightly sweet crust. The meat was perfectly cooked and served with garlic and herb basmati rice and wilted arugula. Pomegranate seeds dotted the dish.
The high-ceilinged room doesn’t retain much heat on cold nights. This explained why so many wore their hats and coats inside. Still, I’ll return, perhaps when it’s warmer, because even though there was a problem with the food, it was rectified. And, I’ll hope for more consistent service next time.
The Carter Payne
Upscale dining in or carryout.
Location: 320 S. Weber St.
Contact: 1-719-306-5006; thecarterpayne.com
Prices: $5 to $37
Hours: 3 to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday; 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday
Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor seating.
Favorite dishes: Chipotle mac and cheese and Baharat pork tenderloin.
Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.