Buyers pointed out the need for larger brands to anchor LFW. “It’s important to also have something like Burberry on the schedule. An international super brand that will round up the week nicely,” says Selfridges’s Myhr.
Looking ahead
As the industry celebrates 40 years of LFW, they’re also thinking about how to support British designers over the next 40. Some are calling for greater institutional and government support.
“The government should provide financial support through grants, loans, or subsidies to help designers cover the costs associated with producing and showcasing their collections. This support can make participating in LFW more feasible and attractive for emerging talent,” says Dumbuya, emphasising a need for business mentorship too. He also would like to see investments to improve the infrastructure such as show venues, transportation and logistics, as well as collaborations with trade organisations to boost international attention. “Initiatives like fashion missions, trade shows, and buyer-seller meets can showcase the talent of London designers to a global audience, attracting buyers to invest in their collections in London.”
Designers also highlight the pace of the industry. “I think we need to reset our expectations of young designers. I think the system expects exciting shows, big collections, each being better than the last, and I think that those expectations come at such great cost both financially and mentally,” says Srvc creative director Ricky Harriott. “It is so important that we allow designers to thrive and showcase their work in ways that benefit them and their businesses, not the ego of the fashion system.”
For Esh, who was born and raised in London, the city’s range of talent incubation programmes and sense of community stand out from other fashion capitals. “I feel very well supported. There’s Newgen, there’s Fashion East, there’s the Sarabande Foundation,” he says. The Sarabande Foundation provided Esh with the show space for free, which, for the designer, sums up the way the London fashion community pulls together to help each other. “This is the city where you’ll be supported.”
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