I went to Camille in Borough Market with certain expectations generated by reviews I had already read in the national press. But reviews, I find, can be misleading.

What I had gleaned from the write-ups was that it is VERY French (more than one of the critics literally wrote, “Oh là là”), VERY garlicky (again, “Oh là là”), and a place where the idea is to get drunk. Three excellent things, in my book. Possibly the three most excellent things in all the world. This was a place I was looking forward to savouring. It would be work, yes, but I would relish it.

One critic had made the mistake of going to Camille when he wasn’t drinking and of inviting