Today [22 November] Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) announced the line up for the AW24 edition taking place from 29 January to 2 February 2024 encompassing 31 brands that have been approved by the CPHFW Show Committee and CPHFW Sustainability Committee.
Following a unique screening process, brands have been selected both from fashion design criteria as well as a full value chain perspective, as they have been screened against CPHFW’s 18 Minimum Standards (outlined below).
This coming season, CPHFW Newtalent supported by Circulose bursary recipient Nicklas Skovgaard shall present as the official opening show on the Monday [29 January] after the official reception, building on the impact the brand’s first showcase for the August edition imprinted. The schedule will continue to hold a break across the Tuesday [3o January], Wednesday [31 January] and Thursday [1 February] allowing for further support towards the burgeoning schedule of presentations, events, showrooms and trade fairs.
CEO Cecilie Thorsmark said: “The global reach that Copenhagen Fashion Week continues to garner is testament to the role a fashion week must play in expecting positive change from international and Nordic leaders in the fashion industry. By implementing Copenhagen Fashion Week as a key cultural activation we are proposing new definitions of what a fashion week can symbolise, with our continued growth only underlining this.”
What is CPHFW Newtalent?
CPHFW Newtalent supported by Circulose is a talent support scheme for emerging Nordic brands with less than five years in business.
For AW24, it will include four brands: continuing from last season are Rolf Ekroth and Nicklas Skovgaard, with Alectra Rothschild/Masculina and Stamm joining the scheme.
For this coming edition, there will be three brands awarded the One To Watch recognition slot: Martin Quad, Sloth Rousing and MLGA.
Brands part of the scheme will receive support for three consecutive seasons through monetary support, mentorships, partnership offerings, professional advisors, onboarding to the official CPHFW show schedule, event participation, showroom activations, alumni network and extensive PR through CPHFW’s international community and channels. Subsequently each designer will graduate on to the alumni scheme.
Copenhagen-based contemporary brand Ganni has announced a new partnership with CPHFW, aiming to elevate and support rising talent within the Copenhagen fashion scene through the Newtalent platform. Ganni has consistently been a part of the schedule since its first show in August 2014, marking 10 years of shows for the brand.
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However this February, Ganni will take a pause from the show schedule, redirecting its efforts towards supporting emerging talent. Andrea Baldo, CEO of Ganni, commented: “We are excited for this season, and the opportunity to continue to nurture emerging talent. In recent years, we have collaborated with rising stars like Priya Ahluwalia, Ester Manas and Kim Nguyen, as well as Nicklas Skovgaard from Copenhagen. Supporting the talent incubator of Copenhagen Fashion Week feels like a natural next step for us.
“Taking a season off the show schedule also allows us to reconsider the vision for our shows and prioritise local key brand projects across Asia and the US, while we look forward to show seasons to come.”
Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week, added: “We are thrilled that Ganni will be supporting CPHFW Newtalent this season, signalling their aligned values towards spotlighting and uplifting the next generation of creatives from the Nordics. Of course, the Ganni show will be dearly missed this season, but they will continue their presence in various activations for the February edition, not least with an exciting project planned with CPHFW Newtalent. We very much look forward to continuing our close collaboration with them in seasons to come.”
Models backstage at Ganni’s SS24 show
The full AW24 brand line up is as follows: Aeron, Alectra Rothschild/Masculina (CPHFW Newtalent), Alpha, Baum und Pferdgarten, Deadwood, Forza Collective, Gestuz, Han Kjøbenhavn, Helmstedt, Henrik Vibskov, J.Lindeberg, Joao Maraschin, Lovechild 1979, Marimekko, Mfpen, Mark Kenly Domino Tan, Munthe, Nicklas Skovgaard (CPHFW Newtalent), OpéraSport, Remain, Rolf Ekroth (CPHFW Newtalent), Rotate, Saks Potts (Wessel & Vett fashion prize winner 2023), Skall Studio, Stamm (CPHFW Newtalent), Stine Goya, TG Botanical, The Garment, Vain, Won Hundred and Wood Wood.
Background on the Minimum Standards
The Minimum Standards are a part of the Sustainability Requirements framework which was developed in conjunction with CPHFW’s 2020-2022 Sustainability Action Plan. The Minimum Standards are mandatory for brands to comply with from the AW23 edition and onwards.
The Minimum Standards are not a new industry audit or certification but a screening framework developed by CPHFW. The screening, executed by the CPHFW Sustainability Committee which is led by Rambøll and supported by Dansk Fashion & Textile and In futurum, ensures that the brands showcasing at the CPHFW AW24 edition are taking action on six focus areas: strategic direction, design, smart material choices, working conditions, consumer engagement and show.