Copenhagen Fashion Week’s (CPHFW) evolution continues. Some of its big names may be skipping this season — former tentpole Ganni shows no appetite to move back from Paris, while Saks Potts and (Di)vision have closed — but there is plenty to fill the gaps, with the schedule feeling more varied as a result.
The Autumn/Winter 2025 edition kicks off on Monday 27 January with 27 shows and eight presentations on the schedule — roughly on par with last year — and a host of events. Among the returning CPHFW big hitters are Rotate, Baum und Pferdgarten and Gestuz. Remain, which like Rotate is owned by Birger Christensen Collective, is without a creative director following the exit of Martin Asbjørn towards the end of 2024. This season, the brand will host a preview of its AW25 collection and a breakfast on 29 January, rather than a show.
Other recognisable names that have joined the calendar include Swedish fashion brand Filippa K and Icelandic outerwear label 66 North, both of which will hold presentations (66 North will host a dinner afterwards to celebrate its 99th anniversary). Malmö-based Cmmn Swdn is also making its schedule debut with a show. “My dream is a pan-Scandi representation at CPHFW, so I’m thrilled that Filippa K and Cmmn Swdn will participate this time around,” says Laird Borrelli-Persson, senior archive editor at Vogue Runway.
Two other additions have visiting editors and buyers both talking. The first is Alis, which was originally founded as a skate brand in Copenhagen’s anarchist commune Freetown Christiania in 1996. It is now being relaunched as a streetwear brand with backing from Rains founders Daniel Brix Hesselager and Philip Lotko, and with Tobias Birk Nielsen in charge of design. Then, Astrid Andersen’s Stel will host its first runway show after a well-received, large-scale launch event last season. “There’s lots to look forward to,” says Borrelli-Persson.
Other emerging names to note include unconventional upcycled women’s tailoring label Bonnetje, which will hold a runway show this season after a low-fi presentation for SS25 as part of the CPHFW New Talent programme. Similarly, Nicklas Skovgaard will stage a runway show this season (he held a buzzy presentation last edition, while consulting on design for certain looks during Ganni’s Paris debut).