Predictable is often throupled with safe and comfortable, and here there’s a sense of all three. Black-and-white celebrity photographs fill the walls. There are leather booths, lots of brushed brass, wine bottles left temptingly on the side. Lighting is low, despite one contraption that looks like a neon kitchen maid. But styling is the strong point, and even the menu is good-looking, white pages with words in red and blue. In a forgiving mood, this is all a soft nod to the intended British spirit. “It’s like a London-themed airport menu,” was a less generous assessment I heard last week.