The tasting menu at Dede costs €180 per head. So the obvious question is, ‘Is it worth it?’ For me, it’s a yes. For someone else, who values different kinds of chattels and experiences, it may be a no. Unless your pockets are deep enough to afford the rugby trips (flights to Rome for the Italy v Ireland Six Nations match next spring are currently pushing €1,000pp) AND the Taylor Swift VIP packages AND The Row’s ‘Margaux’ bag, you’re going to have to make choices. To be able to do any of these things is, of course, a huge privilege.