Saint Laurent strikes brooding note with preppy, 70s flair
A-listers Gwyneth Paltrow and Rami Malek added a touch of after-dark star power to a moody Saint Laurent show on the Left Bank on Tuesday night. Anthony Vaccarello, continuing his well-known explorations of exaggerated proportions, took his penchant for oversize to bold new heights with shoulders so wide they felt architectural.
The collection felt introspective, with its preppy glasses, 70s-inspired shades, and razor-sharp suits channeling the late, great Yves Saint Laurent himself. The silk foulard motifs on slinky gowns, combined with statement gold-plaited earrings, exuded a tactile elegance reminiscent of Vaccarello’s earlier, more refined collections, while subtly referencing the house’s historic obsession with opulence.
The designer’s trademark minimalism was present, especially in the stripped-back, controlled silhouettes of the opening looks. As with prior collections, his reliance on precise tailoring and quiet luxury gave the show a deliberate, restrained feel —though it leaned too heavily on safety. Critics of past seasons who noted his tendency toward oversimplification would find echoes of that here, as the opening half of the show.
Yet, as has often been the case with Vaccarello, the collection’s true brilliance emerged in its latter part. Taking more risks, he introduced rich, sumptuous textures — velvet, lace, and gleaming metallics — in a palette of deep golds, blues and reds. These more luxurious elements, combined with bold ruffled collars and sunray pleats, provided a striking contrast. This final burst of creativity echoed his 70s-era historical references while feeling fresh and contemporary.
Anrealage inflates, fusing surreal with space-age
Kunihiko Morinaga’s Anrealage never fails to surprise, and this Tuesday’s collection was no exception. The show opened with a visually striking parachute design, inflating to create a whimsical fusion of Elizabethan elegance and Haribo-inspired playfulness. These inflated silhouettes immediately set the tone for a collection that danced between past and future, while geometric space-age metal adornments served as bold hairpieces — deepening the anachronism with echoes of historic coiffure.
Morinaga, known for his technological prowess and futurism, blended traditional couture with avant-garde experimentation. A circular puffer jacket—distorted in shape—called to mind the outlandish creations of Viktor & Rolf couture, pushing the limits of wearable fashion. As the show progressed, vibrant clown-like silhouettes in vivid, candy-colored hues crescendoed.
Yet, not everything was flawless. The tech glitches that haunted his past shows were absent here, but Morinaga’s intense focus on spectacle sometimes left questions about wearability. The inflatable, exaggerated forms were striking but not exactly street-ready. However, these bold pieces certainly reaffirmed Anrealage’s mission to dazzle with innovation, much like his viral color-changing collection worn by Beyoncé last year.
Vaquera fetes 10 years with subversive twists on staples
Vaquera marked its 10th anniversary with a bold yet introspective show, blending its rebellious DNA with a sharper focus on wearability. Known for pushing boundaries, designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee are evolving — without losing their edge. This spring, the duo zeroed in on what they called “new basics,” but true to Vaquera style, these were far from ordinary.
Think black bubble miniskirts with built-in bike shorts, bullet-bra tops, and button-downs twisted with strapless bras. These looks walk a fine line between fetish and function, embodying the brand’s signature playfulness while still appealing to its loyal base. Vaquera’s take on “basic” remains anything but — and it’s working. Their collections continue to fly off e-commerce platforms.
But beneath the show’s rebellious flair, there’s a sense of recalibration. After a decade of defying the rules, DiCaprio and Taubensee are adapting to fashion’s financial pressures. Gone are the giant Tiffany-blue dustbag dresses from their breakout days. Now, they’re crafting pieces that balance artistic vision with commercial success. Vaquera’s punk spirit is intact, but it’s growing up.
Yet, their subversive streak remains undeniable. Denim jeans featured interlocking Vs, oversized gold chain prints, and winged Pegasus motifs, offering a cheeky wink at luxury brands. Kitten-heel cowboy boots and quirky pumps rounded out the collection, adding a sophisticated edge to their signature disruption.
Vaquera may be entering its second decade, but their ethos is clear: stay bold, stay rebellious—just with a little more polish. As they carve out their future, they’re proving that even the most rebellious can evolve without losing their spark.