Whenever I go to East Shore Roadhouse, on Route 34 in Lansing, I smile when I’m there and I smile as I leave. It’s because of the ebullience of the can-do/will-do servers and the palpable friendly spirit.
This quasi pub has had many incarnations on the same site for about 80 years, almost always as a bar, or restaurant with a bar, as it is now. It’s small with functional tables that seat either two or four with a total capacity of only about three dozen. There are almost no decorations, unless you want to count a few small, framed mirrors on one wall. Everything about the place is simple and basic: the parking lot isn’t paved, the trash barrels in the two unisex rest rooms are too small to hold all the used paper towels, the ketchup bottles on the tables are often empty, you occasionally have to ask for their paper napkins and silverware, and there are only six beers on tap and fewer in bottles.
So why do I like the place so much? Easy answer. Not only for the cheerfulness of the staff but also because the food is good, the portions are large, and the prices are low and reasonable. And these are the most important issues for me when I eat out.
Breakfast is served Wednesday through Saturday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Sundays from 7-1 so you can basically choose which meal you prefer and you’ll be offered separate menus for each.
Breakfast offers a surprisingly eclectic mix which includes Latin-style dishes: a burrito ($13) and Huevos (eggs dishes) in three sizes: single $5, double $8 or triple $12. If you prefer an omelet, you will also be asked to choose a size, small ($10) or large ($13). I’m struck by the variety of omelets on offer: There are two dozen different fillings, three of which are included, and any of the other twenty-one can be added for $1 each.
A knowledgeable friend of mine, who has breakfast there weekly, likes their French toast on sourdough bread.
At one lunch I ordered a bowl (soup is not available in a cup) of house made beet and carrot soup ($7). It was thick and delicious. If I want to make a soup that thick, with bits of the veggies evident, I stop blending it just before it becomes a puree. This consistency is my favorite as it makes me aware that what I’m eating comes from real root vegetables.
The lunch menu also offers a Latin flavor with a Cubano sandwich, ($15) which just happens to be the most popular dish in the restaurant. It features roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, yellow mustard, roasted house made garlic aioli and a pickle, all on focaccia.
There’s an interesting section of the menu that has a half dozen selections, all of which can be ordered as a beef burger, buttermilk fried chicken, grilled chicken, or a bean burger. They are $14 or $15, and all are terrific.
Being a traditionalist, I like the mushroom swiss as a beef burger. It’s huge and like all their sandwiches is brought to the table with a steak knife stuck into the top of the bun. I’ve tried to eat it with my hands but have never succeeded, partly because it’s too large and partly because the homemade garlic aioli and Dijon mustard combination makes it too slippery so the greens, sauteed mushrooms, and Swiss cheese keep sliding out.
I really enjoy this as a beef burger, however I’m sure it would be just as good with chicken. When I order the beef medium rare, it invariably comes medium rare. We’re entitled to one side out of nine on offer and I often choose Roadhouse beans which are a combination of black and white beans in a subtle sauce and are delicious. Roadhouse fries are good too. They’re offered with a hot sauce or just salt and pepper, which I choose.
Other preparation varieties in this section include Cajun blackened; bourbon bacon jam; smoked gouda with bacon and jalapenos; and pepperjack with fried jalapenos and chipotle mayo.
Once I tried a Pecan Chicken wrap ($15). It was a huge portion and included lots of chicken, orange zest, cranberries, feta, and candied pecans. The chicken can be prepared grilled or fried.
East Shore Roadhouse is unpretentious. It’s like a neighborhood establishment for locals or travelers in bygone days and yet it’s in Lansing, less than five miles from The Shops at Ithaca mall. I recommend it for the variety of comfort-type food and fair prices, and I believe, when you leave, you’ll have a smile on your face too.
East Shore Roadhouse
1928 E. Shore Drive, Lansing
(607) 219-3004
Weds.-Sat. 7 a.m.-3 p.m.
Sun. 7 a.m.-1 p.m.